UNSEEN RAJASTHAN: AN OFFBEAT JOURNEY THROUGH THE RURAL RAJASTHAN! ONCE IN A LIFETIME!

This winter why not traverse through the less explored destinations in Rajasthan. Be there before tourists throng it!

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Haveli at Bikaner

Every year in winter, tourists from across the world and India inundate the famous cities of Rajasthan. However, if you are bored of the cliched destinations in Rajasthan, I would suggest a detour to its rural landscapes. In my road trip to the rural Rajasthan last winter, I realized that is where the true heart of Rajasthan lies. Raw, real, quirky and hospitable! I hopped on to the ever reliable State transport buses and Indian railways to make this journey to the far interiors of Rajasthan happen. I discovered the true beauty of this Royal State like never before. I have seen so much of Rajasthan and it still never fails to surprise me. During my journey, I also happened to unearth the heartwarming stories of man and animal living in harmony, very unique to this state.

PUSHKAR

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A Day at Pushkar fair!

Pushkar fair needs no introduction. It is one of the most popular and largest cattle fair not only in India but in the world. There is plenty to do here. Hot air balloon rides, rural Circus shows, seedy magic shows, rural sports, and sumptuous food had me hooked for 2 days. I could not resist ODing on Daal-Bati-Churma (Dough Balls served with lentils and sweet powder), lasoon Ki Chutney (Garlic sauce) and gatte ki sabzi (Curry of gram flour cakes) in the many restaurants that line the streets.

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Performer at Pushkar fair. I had seen him at Kala Ghoda Arts Festival, Mumbai too

An ‘open to all’ impromptu magic show on grounds (pay as you like!) had the audience riveted. My city bred mind was amused to see the spectacle. The snake charmer had his own stardom.  After downing countless sips of tea from kulhad (mud cup), I headed to Pushkar lake. Claimed by humans and pigeons alike, the lake oozed spirituality as thousands thronged to take a dip in the holy water. Soon a religious procession at a road nearby distracted me.

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Local women watching sports at Pushkar fair

Hundreds marched in colorful attires, crushing softly the fragrant rose and marigold flowers beneath their bare feet. Absorbing the hedonic scents, I moved to the bus stand for a quick stop at Ajmer. I spent some time admiring the sunset at the Anna Sagar lake in silence. Not far away was Ajmer Shariff Dargaah. I couldn’t resist a soul stirring qawwali session. Being a vegetarian, I stayed away from the restaurants, though binged on the sweets at street shops. ‘Dhai Din Ka Jhopra’ nearby is a must, but before sunrise.

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Local women, Pushkar fair

KHICHAN 

Sevaram Malli Parihar, who lives in the nondescript dusty village Khichan, has been awarded several times for his focused wildlife conservation efforts. Some 20,000 demoiselle cranes migrate to Khichan and surrounding areas from Siberia every year in winter. He has worked overnight to ensure that the birds are not harmed by human intervention, electric poles, the works!

He has a set routine every morning. His day starts with feeding countless number of cranes in a bird feeding ground facing his house. He often identifies any injured bird and gets them admitted to an animal hospital nearby if required. The birds have invented a routine for themselves as well. They feed in batches in a disciplined manner. I was amused to see how the second batch of cranes waited patiently outside the fence of the feeding ground until. They didn’t enter until the first batch is at least halfway through the feed.  Such discipline!

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The cranes at Khichan.

After talking to Sevaram and spending quality time with him, I was impressed with the determination of a ‘powerless’ man. It’s humbling to see how an uneducated village man brought about enormous change in the attitude towards wildlife conservation. I have always maintained that only locals with the help of government can help sustain and bring momentum to wildlife conservation. Such stories restore my faith in humanity. It is heart-warming indeed to witness the one of its kind cordial relationship the cranes share with the local villagers and animals. Rajasthan sure knows how to extend its hospitality to human and animals alike.

OM BANNA TEMPLE

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The ‘Bike God’ , Om Banna Temple

Om Banna is a unique temple, only one of its kind in India. The diety worshipped here is a 350 cc motorbike and not a clay idol. It is situated on the highway towards Pali and the nearest big city is Jodhpur. The owner of the motorcycle was one Om Singh Rathore. The folklore has it that some years ago, he met an accident and perished at the spot where a tree still stands (and worshipped).  It is said that the police locked the bike many times in the station. Every time, the same bike re appeared at the accident spot, as if by magic! The word spread far and wide and today pilgrims throng the place and offer their prayers. The bike has finally been relocated to the spot, a little away from the tree, owing to the sentiments of the ‘pilgrims’. The much revered tree exists at the exact spot. The temple and the bike has been shifted a little beyond in order to avoid disruption in traffic.

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Inside Om Banna Temple

Some of the thousands of devotees who throng every day, offer alcohol as a tradition. I saw many newly weds visiting the temple. It is considered auspicious to do so. The ‘God fearing’ passer byes often make a stop at the temple. The legend has it that doing so ensures safety on the road. I was amazed and amused to hear the customized Om Banna Aarti being belted passionately by the local singers. The roadside shops sold only Om Banna merchandise such as Om Banna stickers, Books, CDs and Decorative pieces. Faith has many faces in India.

BIKANER

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Haveli, Bikaner

The world knows Bikaner for its famous aaloo bhujia, but did you know about the secrets that it hides? The narrow lanes of the old city boast of many drop dead gorgeous havelis. As I made my way through the winding lanes, the ancient havelis struck with their grandeur. The exquisitely carved haveli display varied embellishments and architectural styles.

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Details of a haveli, Bikaner

If you are attentive (and erudite), it’s easy to spot Mughal, Rajpoot and even British architecture style on the havelis’ façade. Some craning of neck helped me to appreciate the beauty of the delicate stone jaali, chajjas, windows, et al. The red sandstone gives the haveli a character of its own. I think it is best to make a visit early morning since there is not much traffic in the streets. That said, really early morning is the trick, lest be prepared to get embroiled in the morning rush hour. You can easily lose track of time as you explore the serpentine roads, admiring one haveli after the other. These havelis are unique to Bikaner. I found some havelis locked up. However, the locals still live in many of these.

Karni Mata Temple

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Karni Mata Temple

In Rajasthan the curious can find many quirky places. Top position on that pyramid is perhaps claimed by the Karni mata temple world famous for the thousands of black rats it shelters. And worships! 30 kilometers away from Bikaner, Karni Mata temple at Deshnoke, is also known as, the temple of Rats. Rats rule here and how! There are theories galore on how and why the people of Rajasthan began worshipping the approximately 20, 000 rats in this temple.

It is said that despite such huge numbers the place has never fallen prey to any epidemic. I could not walk smoothly without bumping into a rat. In this temple if you step on a rat, you have to pay hefty fine. It is accepted that if a rat crosses your leg, luck will be on your side. That said, if you have been able to spot a rare white rat it is said to bring you even better luck. Many rats did cross my legs though I am not sure if it brought me any luck or not.

They were every-where, feeding off the milk pot, resting in the holes, fighting for a spot in the holes, sharing the abundant food quietly, the works!

TAL CHAPPAR BLACKBUCK SANCTUARY

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Black bucks at Tal Chappar sanctuary

So few wildlife sanctuaries in the world allow you to explore on your own, without a guide, on foot! Tal Chappar lets one walk in the sanctuary at your own pace. This is exactly what I did one fine winter morning. The haven for blackbucks and other species such as wild boars, neelgai and many birds, Tal Chappar is an under rated delight. Early morning and evening is the best time to appreciate the beauty of this land and its inhabitants.

FACT FILE 

How to reach by Train (In logical order)

Pushkar:

Train Number: 19032, Yoga Express

Destination: New Delhi (21:25, day 1) to Ajmer (6:40 a.m., Day 2)

Khichan and Om Banna temple

Train Number: 15014, Ranikhet Express

Destination: Ajmer (13:40, Day 1 ) to Jodhpur (17:35, Day 1)

Bikaner

Train Number: 14708, Ranakpur Express

Destination: Jodhpur (10:00, Day 1) to Bikaner (15:35, Day 1)

Karni Mata Temple:

(Road Trip from Bikaner)

Tal Chappar : Reach from Bikaner

 

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Karni Mata temple

Note – A different version of this article was published as a cover story in the official railway magazine of India called Railbandhu.

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Tal Chappar Black bucks sanctuary

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Local woman, Pushkar fair

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40 thoughts on “UNSEEN RAJASTHAN: AN OFFBEAT JOURNEY THROUGH THE RURAL RAJASTHAN! ONCE IN A LIFETIME!

  1. I love finding little gems like this before the tourists take over! I keep having to go further off the beaten track to find these kind of places though!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Wow wow wow! The pictures are just wow and write up has awakened that wish to visit pushkar and ajmer once again which had been on hibernation period from long.
    I wanna visit all of these you mentioned but may give rat temple a miss 😋
    Congratulations for Railbandhu cover story 😊

    Liked by 1 person

  3. We have been to Rajasthan before and will be visiting again this year. The rich cultural heritage of Rajasthan can never get boring you can revisit it anytime 🙂 We have already been to few of these places already and few more we will be visiting this year. Khichan looks fascinating with flocking demoiselle cranes.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. A very nice article! I enjoyed my time in Rajesthan and reading your post brought back memories! I didn’t care for the rat temple too much (I wrote about it as well!) but did enjoy the peace and tranquility of Pushkar.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Brilliant coverage of the places, Abhinav! I’ve never been to Rajasthan and I regret that big time. It’s been due from quite some time now and this post has motivated me enough to plan the rajasthan trip soon. Also, lovely clicks! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Abhinav another masterly article on Rajasthan. Love the way you have captured the expressions of Rajasthan in winters. Congratulations on getting published on RailBandhu. You can include a link to the article giving it a bit more awesome feel. Pushkar Fair remains on my go to list 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Yes… spent just an hour in Khichan but t turned out to be one of my best experences. Ye to to visit the Bikaner area.
    Rajasthan has so much to offer but most typical travel agents and guidebooks do not see beyond Jpur-Udaipur-Jodhpur.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. I like how authentic the images are! I never traveled in India and do not plan to in the short term, but it is great to see locals through your lens! Happy to see some colorful pictures of the people! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Love the colorful photos. That temple looks amazing! I’ve been only to Agra, Varanasi and Delhi. Hope to see more of India in the future so I can enjoy more of its history and culture.

    Liked by 1 person

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  11. Pingback: DHANAK THE FILM- ROAD TRIP TO RURAL RAJASTHAN! – Soul Window – Travel stories and pictures from Indian writer

  12. Whoa. What a wonderful blog. Why I love your blog is the fact that you visit and and write about places which nobody writes about. A true traveler in real sense. Plus your exceptional photography. Keep up the good work,champ.

    Liked by 1 person

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