{"id":5128,"date":"2016-12-24T11:53:23","date_gmt":"2016-12-24T11:53:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/asoulwindow.com\/?p=5128"},"modified":"2022-01-16T20:58:36","modified_gmt":"2022-01-16T20:58:36","slug":"why-is-everyone-so-chilled-out-at-penis-art-on-bhutan-walls-chimi-lhakhang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asoulwindow.com\/why-is-everyone-so-chilled-out-at-penis-art-on-bhutan-walls-chimi-lhakhang\/","title":{"rendered":"CHIMI LHAKHANG: WHY IS EVERYONE SO CHILLED OUT AT PENIS ART ON BHUTAN WALLS?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"img_0809\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I HEARD FEMALE GIGGLES<\/strong> as I was concentrating on taking pictures and videos of huge phallic signs on the walls of Bhutanese homes. “There are so many of them, in a variety of colors and designs. It’s weird<\/strong>.” The white woman quipped. Many people from (supposedly liberal) western countries were as aghast on seeing phallic symbols as the (supposedly conservative) Asians. Chimi Lhakhang<\/strong> is the place associated with such symbols. Though you can see phallic symbols across Bhutan, you find more of such symbols near Chimi Lhakhang.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_1138\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The penis images painted on walls are outrageous.<\/strong> Some have ribbon tied around them; some are shown engulfed by a dragon. Some are even shown ejaculating<\/strong>.  I was amused to see penises with eyes, wings and hands as well. Each one of them is erect and comes with hairy testicles<\/strong> (Some \u2018shaved\u2019 too). You can\u2019t afford to miss them thanks to their explicit nature and size (From tiny ones to as large as an adult human).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0941\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As I walked on the lush green hilly terrains to reach Chimi Lhakhang, I was amused by graphic pictures of phallus on the walls of homes and shops. Some of it was aimed at tourists, some authentic. Kids played nonchalantly in the shadow of the wall art while men and women went about their work, not embarrassed of passing such symbols every now and then. In conservative Asian cultures, this is an aberration, even a mild shock!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0903\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Prayer flags fluttered wildly in the unending rice fields as cows grazed nonchalantly in the undulating fields. A dog followed us<\/strong> throughout as we negotiated narrow dirt tracks and open drains to reach the Chimi Lhakhang. Women roasting \u2018bhooja\u2019 (Dry Snacks also popular in India) in an incongruous hut filled the air with a comforting fragrance and warmth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0899\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The cool breeze slapped our cheeks and we would take pauses to soak in the tranquility of the place and admire its raw beauty. Tens of red robed kids were chanting<\/strong> under a tree in their al fresco school.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0997\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As I entered the temple, a child monk approached me and blessed me by softly banging a 10 inches wooden penis on my head.<\/strong> It got me curious and I asked my guide Sonam the reason behind the mystery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0799\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sonam transports me to 15th<\/sup> century. Lama Drukpa Kunley<\/strong><\/a> (1455- 1529) popularly known as the divine madman of Dragon lineage<\/strong> established the monastery in 1499<\/strong>. Folklore has it that he subdued a cannibal demon goddess with his \u2018magic thunderbolt of wisdom\u2019<\/strong>. Following this event, the monastery was established on a hillock in Punakha by his cousin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_1107\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A famous poet, monk and Buddhist scholar, he introduced an alternative school of Buddhism in Bhutan. A connoisseur of wine, women and finer things in life, he broke the tradition and introduced a school of thought which was unashamed of sexuality<\/strong> and encouraged his followers (mostly women) to shun greed and embrace a honest and spiritual life. His sexual adventures are the stuff legends are made up of. It is said that he even employed intercourse as a blessing to his female followers<\/strong>. Through his unorthodox teachings, he enlightened those who listened to him. His influence is still palpable in Bhutan<\/a>. The lama Kunley saw the hillock (where the monastery is situated) as the \u2018breast of a woman\u2019.<\/strong>\"img_1008\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even today, childless couples head to Chimi Lhakhang to seek cure for their infertility.<\/strong> Also known as the \u2018infertility temple\u2019<\/strong>, locals come here to seek blessings. The wooden penis, which the divine madman brought from Tibet is used to bless the women who seek to cure the couple\u2019s infertility. Couples also come here for the naming ceremony of their children.\"img_1105\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The penis figures are also known to ward off the evil spirits and gossips<\/strong> which explain its presence on the walls of the households. However, I was told that in urban areas of Bhutan, the numbers of such figures on walls are dwindling thanks to the growing prudishness and self censorship. Also known as the \u2018mad saint\u2019<\/strong>, his unprecedented teaching style was laced with humor, songs and socially unacceptable behavior. He popularized the depiction of erect penis figures outside houses<\/strong> along with a flying wooden penis on the top of the main entrance of the house, much like the \u2018toran\u2019 popular in India.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0932\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

MORE BLOGS ON BHUTAN:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE HAA VALLEY: BEST KEPT SECRET OF BHUTAN<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

ALL YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT PARO<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MUST DO THINGS IN THIMPHU: 30 EXCLUSIVE PICTURES<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"img_0801\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n