Prayers in Sri Sri Auniati Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe moment I stepped on the soil of Majuli island, it made me fall head over heels in love with it. It\u2019s a pity that I saw more foreigners (European) than Indian travelers in Majuli. In fact I was the only Indian staying in the home-stay out of 10 plus guests who were staying there at that time. It is a hidden paradise, to say the least.<\/p>\nSri Sri Auniati Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI HAD LEFT Dibrugarh late night on a very comfortable bus (Rs. 150 one way). It passed through Sivasagar<\/strong>. I even caught a fleeting glimpse of the Rangghar.<\/strong> I was tempted to get down but my focus was Majuli. To reach Majuli, I first planned to reach Jorhat. Visiting the Gibbon Sanctuary<\/strong> was also on my agenda. It is a day trip from Jorhat.<\/p>\nMasks of Lord Ram, Goddess Sita and Lord Laxman. Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>TRAVEL HORRORS: I WAS ALMOST HOMELESS IN JORHAT<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nTo my horror, I reached Jorhat at 12 a.m. Not a single soul was visible on road. The street lights looked eerie and haunted. I HAD NO IDEA WHERE I WAS STAYING. I NEVER BOOK BEFORE TRAVEL UNLESS I AM TRAVELING WITH PARENTS. But this was a budget and solo trip. I mostly go with the flow on such trips. I continued walking for few kilometers in well lit empty roads. A hotel in far distance did catch my attention but it looked too expensive for a backpacker like me. I walked some more and saw the firt humans. Those were auto rickshaw guys. They did notice me. I ignored and kept walking keeping my eyes down but tracking them from the corner of my eyes. A little more walking and I saw some light in the basement of a tall building.<\/p>\nA tourist having some fun with the masks in Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI knocked at the basement door, expecting for a blank reply. To my relief, a man opened the door for me. It was a hotel. I asked at the reception. \u201cDo you have a single room with attached bathroom? I need for 1 day.\u201d By this time I was even willing to stretch my budget. \u201cNo single rooms available. A double room is available for 1 crore rupee a night!\u201dOf course it did not fit my budget. I enquired more and found a small room with common bathroom just next to it for only Rs. 400 a night. Just what I wanted! I checked in and crashed on the bed.<\/p>\n
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<\/span>THE FERRY RIDE FROM NIMATI GHAT NEAR JORHAT TO MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT<\/strong> ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nAs I returned from the Gibbon Sanctuary<\/strong>, on the same day, I arrived at Majuli via Jorhat. I reached Jorhat at around 2 pm. I did not have lunch. All I had was 2 plates (nice) pani poori from Jorhat market.\u00a0 I had already checked out from the hotel before heading out to the Gibbon Sanctuary. I had submitted my Columbia backpack in the morning at the reception counter so that I do not have to pay Rs. 400 more.<\/p>\nThe quirky and gorgeous patterns at the sunset point. Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>HOW TO REACH MAJULI FROM JORHAT VIA NIMATI GHAT ON A BUDGET: OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nI got the shared Magic van right outside my hotel. For Rs. 30 it helped me reach Nimati Ghat<\/strong> via picturesque route in 45 minutes. I saw lovely homes, abundant greenery and my first glimpse of Sattras. The magic van was full but I did not feel suffocated or uncomfortable. My backpack was kept in the storage space behind the van. It was much easier to reach Nimati Ghat from Jorhat than I had imagined. Please see attached time table and plan your exit from Jorhat accordingly.<\/p>\nBreathtaking Sun Set in Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>TOP PLACES TO SEE IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nI hated myself for spending just 3 days in Majuli. Well, it was technically just 1 day. On day 1, I arrived just before sun set. On day 2, I explored Majuli from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. I checked out the early morning on day 3. I badly wanted to do so many things but picked the best I could do in 7 hours. I even managed to wash and dry my clothes here. It got dirty as I was on a long term travel.<\/p>\nSince I was on a 2 months long trip, I had to wash my clothes every few days. Climate of Majuli was perfect for drying clothes. Thanks to quick dry Columbia Sportswear which I was carrying, drying clothes was easier. The homestay I stayed at in Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSOUL WINDOW TIP:<\/strong> <\/span>I washed the clothes in the night as soon as I checked in. It allowed more time for the clothes to dry. On my travel, whether luxury<\/strong> or backpacking<\/strong>, I always carry light, quick dry clothes. The shirts and pants by Columbia sportswear<\/strong> helped me a lot during my 2 months long trip in North East India. It dries really fast. In fact, when I did river rafting in the scenic river of Dambuk in Arunachal Pradesh, I did not even need to change my pants. It dried up as I walked after the water rafting. So, always pack wisely when you travel.<\/p>\nInside a satra. Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>GO SATTRA HOPPING IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT<\/strong> ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nThe Vaishnavite Sattras<\/strong> of Majuli has a mystical aura to it. I had no idea that Sattras was not exclusive to Majuli. As I travelled to many laces in Assam, I learned later that Sattras are common all over Assam. I saw many Sattras as I travelled to other places in Assam such as Dibrugarh, Guwahati, Jorhat, Gibbon Sanctuary etc on my 2 month long first trip to North East India.<\/p>\nA monk at Sri Sri Auniati Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIt is an alternative niche religion followed widely in this part of India. I was lucky when I arrived as a pooja was going on in the Sattra. Chanting of mantra and musical instruments filled the large hall of the sattra. The monks participated sincerely, unperturbed by the presence of the only outsider, me! 2 monks who were standing, sang and played the music as other monks sat on one corner with Prasad made up of moong daal. The restless Pigeons kept changing their location, as if dancing to the tunes.<\/p>\nCommon scenes in Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>DO NOT MISS THE SATTRIYA DANCE IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nIt was my lucky day. The monks had just started dancing when I arrived at Kamlabari Sattriya. The dance was high on energy and a fast paced one.<\/p>\nSattriya dance in Kamalabari Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe energy was contrary to the easy going pace of the calm rituals and ceremonies and the tranquil atmosphere of Sattras I had experienced since morning. Dressed in white, the all men team of monk sang and danced in the hall of Sattra, as the audience watched, gobsmacked!<\/p>\nSattriya dance in Kamalabari Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI also met a local girl who was playing video games as I was leaving. I thought that only male monks reside in Sattra. So the presence of a female child in Sattra took me by surprise. My guide told me that<\/strong> many there are sattras for families as well.<\/p>\nA female monk in Kamalabari Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nMy understanding of Sattra started getting better as I visited one more Sattra. A visit to this Sattra<\/strong> broke one more misconception. I thought that only celibate single males can become monks here. Mitu<\/strong> told me that this Sattra was exclusive for families. The families lived and practiced the religion here as contrary to only males. Mitu and his family also stayed at one of the homes here. I visited his austere home where sister in law of Mitu served me piping hot tea and cookies, just walking distance away from Sattra.<\/p>\nMitu, my guide. He and his family lives in Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>VISIT A SCHOOL IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nI was not very keen when Mitu took me for a visit to a school in Majuli. Everyone knows that I am not too fond of kids (Sorry kids, if you are reading this!). It was still a unique experience to visit a local school in Majuli. I enjoyed going through the bulletin boards, staff room, various models and charts which talked about science or the larger than life Demi God of Assam, late Bhupen Hazarika ji.<\/p>\nA school near Sri Sri Auniati Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI also enjoyed visiting different classrooms. After visiting the classroom for toddlers, I visited the class rooms of teenagers. They were goofing around and making noise when I entered the class room. They all fell silent together and looked at me collectively as if I had just landed from Jupiter.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\nThe scared schoolkids in Majuli river island, Assam, India. Near Sri Sri Auniati Satra.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI talked to some kids and bid them adieu with a smile on my lips. This is how I like human kids- from a distance and for few minutes. Yes, I am Sri Devi<\/strong> from Bollywood blockbuster Mr. India!<\/p>\nA Mishing woman weaving below her hut, which is on stilts. Mishing village, Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>VISIT A REAL MISHING VILLAGE IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nI did not want to leave the Mishing village. Manjeet, the owner of the homestay where I stayed at, also belonged to the Mishing tribe. He told me that Mishing people are originally from Tibet. (Who would have thought!).<\/p>\nKids on a swing below their bamboo hut. The hut is on a stilt and this space is used to keep domestic animals (pig, cow, hens) or park cycles and bikes or even for swings for kids and space for weaving. It get filled to brim during monsoon. Mishing village, Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThey kept settling at different locations time and again, leaving the British clueless during the awful Raj <\/strong>era when the British plundered<\/strong> and looted across not only India but many other countries. They named the tribe as Missing which later became Mishing. The tribe was originally called Miri<\/strong>, but Manjeet told me that Mishing people do not like it if you address them as Miri. They still have a Raj hangover.<\/p>\nThe very charming (always smiles) owner of the homestay I stayed at. He is a Mishing too. Mishing village, Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>INDULGE IN BIRDWATCHING \u2013 LOCAL AND MIGRATORY BIRDS GALORE IN MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nMajuli is a paradise for birdwatchers and wildlife photographers alike. XYZ from Netherlands, who I travelled with for 12 hours from Jorhat to Kohima, told me that the sheer variety and colors of Kingfishers he had seen in the fields of Majuli left him agape mouthed. I can\u2019t agree more. I too saw many local and migratory birds in Majuli. As we were riding on the bike of Mitu, a huge stork, foraging \u00a0few feet away from me made me go \u2018wow\u2019. I wanted to indulge in birdwatching and bird photography but I was already running short of time and Majuli has a lot of places to see. I promised myself to return for a dedicated bird-watching trip.<\/p>\nA monk making a traditional hand fan in monk’s quarters. Sri Sri Auniati Satra, Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>VISIT THE MASK MAKING WORKSHOP AND WATCH MASK DANCE TOO \u2013 ONLY IN MAJULI ISLAND, OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nThere is only one family which makes the unique masks of Majuli, now known all over the world. The family has been passing on the knowledge and tradition from one generation to other.<\/p>\nMask making in Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI told you it was my lucky day, so I ended up not only observing the artists making the mask with clay, bamboo and cow dung but I also enjoyed the artists getting ready for a mask dance.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\nMask making in Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nMitu waited patiently as I sat on the floor, making the most of my luck. Turned out, some Indian travelers from Bengal had requested for a mask dance for a fee. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time. Again.<\/p>\nMasks of Ramayana personalities such as Bali, Sugriv and Lord Hanuman in Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe dances told stories from Ramayana in a fun and engaging way. The performance was short but a visual delight nonetheless. It was performed not on a clinical stage but in the workshop itself, with dramatic masks in the background.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\nThe mask dance in Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAs a token of appreciation and gratitude, I donated some money in front of the largest statue. It was an unforgettable experience.<\/p>\n
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<\/span>WATCH AMAZING SUNSET FROM A SECRET LOCATION – MAJULI ISLAND. OFFBEAT ASSAM:<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nMitu took me at a vantage point which offered the best views of sunset in Majuli. I reached early so that I can choose the best place to enjoy the sunset. I chose a rocky platform made only for watching the sun set. I was impressed by an elderly lady who struggled to walk on the uneven path. She was supported by her son and daughter in law. She later got down and sat on an empty boat. I was impressed by her spirit! I am sure she enjoyed it. This is why I love traveling with parents<\/strong>. I am going to use this example on my mother every time she will refuse to travel with me owing to health issues.<\/p>\nNorth East India has the best of sunsets. This one was in Majuli. Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI sat on one of the rocks and waited for the sunset. I meditated for some time followed by a walk and absorbing the atmosphere in silence. A boat tied in long distance! Kids playfully taking bath in the river! Local women going about their chores! The unusual patterns of river and soil! The works! And then the magic began. As the sun started to set, the sky burst into a riot of colors.<\/p>\nThe glorious sun set of Majuli, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nA boatman lyrically started rowing his boat towards the orange sun. I watched at the seat, numb at my \u2018balcony seat\u2019, as if I had bought tickets for a grand theatre performance. Parnashree Devi, my friend from Assam was right, \u201cSunset in Majuli are not to be missed!\u201d<\/p>\nEat with local people at dhabas such as this one. Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN GUIDE FOR MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nIt is very easy to find good vegan and vegetarian food in not only Majuli but most of Assam, when compared to other states of North East India. In my home-stay, I ate a nice vegetarian thali<\/em>. Rice and daal<\/em> (lentils) was served with nice cabbage and fried aubergine. I was served bread jam and bananas for breakfast at the home-stay.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
Now let\u2019s talk about the food I had on streets and dhabas. Mitu and I had a wonderful vegan thali<\/em> for lunch at one of the dhabas.<\/em>(Makeshift restaurant) The thali<\/em> comprised of a wonderful bamboo chutney, ghughni<\/em> (matar), aalu bhujia<\/em> (fried potatoes) and chapattis. I was happy to eat some wheat after a long time as it is not easy to find wheat in North India. Rice is more common here. The cost of thali<\/em> was just Rs. 40 For evening snack, I ate Ghughni again and vegan noodles (Rs. 40) from the street side cart.<\/p>\nAll this for Rs. 40 It was delicious, especially the bamboo chutney. Yes, from the place (pic above) Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAnd on the morning when I had some time for my ferry, I ate the very comforting hot ghughni<\/em> and roti<\/em> again at the ferry station. I am sure, if you will explore more and ask around you will get many more options. You can write in the comment section if you know a place in Majuli which served great vegan and vegetarian food.<\/p>\nA local returning home at the Mishing village, Majuli river island, Assam, India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/span>FACILITIES AVAILABLE AT MAJULI ISLAND \u2013 OFFBEAT ASSAM<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\nMajuli is a proper town with most of the facilities available. \u201cDo you have police station and crime here? It looks so peaceful. Almost Utopian!\u201d, I asked Manjeet. He replied with a laugh, \u201cCrime rate is very low here. Where will they run away?<\/strong> They will be caught in the ferry!\u201d<\/p>\nMajuli has many ATMS, 2 petrol pumps, clinics, schools, restaurants, many hotels and home stays (Both cemented ones and bamboo ones) and even a barber shop, if you fancy one.<\/p>\nYou can also stay at mainstream hotels such as this one . Starts Rs. 3000. Contact Holiday Scout to book the same. Majuli river island, Assam, India<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n