Last Updated on April 1, 2019 by

TRACKING SILVERBACK MOUNTAIN GORILLA IN BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA – DAY TREK

This blog is about my experience of tracking silverback mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda, Africa. The blog also lists important information such as where to stay, how to reach and best time to visit Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda.

THE HEART-STOPPING MOMENT AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

She brushed past me as she appeared from deep bushes on my left, her body rubbing against my legs. I froze and so did my camera. Her young offspring though remain seated nonchalantly on her back.

The gorillas acted cool and unperturbed as if we did not exist! As if, my leg was a branch.

There was absolutely no acknowledgement of our presence. Our excitement to see a Gorilla family was not reciprocated. The family comprised of a giant male, also known as Silverback, his spouse female gorilla and their only child. The child left her mother’s back and started eating the leaves. So did the adult gorillas. Gorillas usually eat fruits, epiphytes and foliage.

I noticed the fur of mountain gorillas is thicker than other primates. The guide also told us that they also have more body fat so that they can survive colder temperature since they prefer living in High altitude regions of Africa.

Instead of making us follow them through a very dense, at times thorny forest and stepping on slippery stems, the gorillas allowed us to have a good look by staying at one place and dining to their heart’s content as we regained control on our breaths and cameras. The armed park ranger who accompanied us at all times looked on without expressions.

MOUNTAIN GORILLAS – ONE OF THE MOST ENDANGERED ANIMALS OF THE WORLD!!!

It was a surreal moment. It was for the first time that I saw a real Gorilla; not counting the lonely sad Gorilla in Mysore Zoo long ago. I have not been to a Zoo since and that poor Gorilla has passéd away anyways. Constantly under the threat of encroachment, civil war, deforestation and hunting, the Gorillas are one of the most endangered animals of the world. Only 880 mountain gorillas survive in wild. I hope the conservation efforts change that.

THE MAJESTIC SILVERBACK MALE GORILLA – BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

The silverback male gorilla transported me back to a King Kong Movies and Planet of Apes series. Huge, powerful, menacing and majestic, the gorillas knows that you are looking at them without blinking an eyelid! Much like the Tigers of India in national parks, they do not even care about your presence. It was awe inspiring to be so close to the gorillas all of whom were a bit too gentle towards us. We stayed there for close to an hour, just watching them unhurriedly eat away the leaves of the bushes around them.

We were staring at 3 of the only 400 gorillas present in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda.  There were few more scattered around the area, some lazing under a canopy made up of bush, some ‘monkeying around’ on trees.

 

400 is a small number but my perspective changed when the officials told us that it is half of the world’s population of the severely endangered mountain gorillas. We stared for some more time.

CLIMATE AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

I had imagined it to be a mere walk in the bush. It turned out to be 3 hours long adventure through dense rainforest. As soon I, the Indian Film Industry delegation, the High Commissioner of Uganda in India and Ugandan journalists disembarked from the MI-17, we sensed a change in climate. We travelled across the length and breadth of Uganda for 8 days and experienced amazing diversity and different weathers.

This was unlike anything we had seen in Uganda before. It was humid and wet.

We had been warned of rain. Fearing further damage to my burned thumb and fingers and my camera, I requested the officials at the reception for a raincoat. Unfortunately, none of us carried a raincoat which is a mistake.

It can rain anytime in The Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. So, always carry a light raincoat. However, we were plain lucky to not have any rain during the Gorilla Trek. Just my good karma, eh! Carrying a mosquito repellent is also a good idea.

 

HOW IS GORILLA TREK IN BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA DIFFERENT FROM GORILLA TREKS IN RWANDA AND CONGO, AFRICA?

“To your right is Congo and on the left is Rwanda.” Being a border junkie, that got me excited. Also, the fact that Gorillas can be found in wild in only 3 countries, Congo, Rwanda and Uganda.

Fortunately, Gorilla trek in Uganda is not as expensive as in Rwanda and the country is peaceful unlike Democratic Republlic of Congo (Virunga National Park). Uganda, thus is your best option when it comes to Gorilla treks. These 3 are the only nations in the world where you can see a mountain gorilla in the wild. I would personally like to explore Gorilla treks in all the 3 nations.

THINGS TO DO AND NOT TO DO AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA.

The Bwindi Impenetrable National Park also known as BINP has professional trackers who track the movement of gorillas and inform the trek leader over walkie-talkie. As we entered the main gate of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, we were given a briefing by officials of the austere building.

How to behave in front of gorillas?

How to change camera lens when the gorillas are around?

How to react when the Gorillas beat their chest aggressively?

Luckily, we had a pleasant experience.

THE MOUNTAIN GORILLA HABITUATION OR TRAINING AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

“The chosen gorilla families undergo a process of habituation or training for 2 years before being roped in for a Gorilla trek.”, the local trek leader who was same age as mine, told us. The process is done in order to get the gorilla families used to human presence. In southern Bwindi in the Rushaga region, you can even spend time with the gorilla families who are a part of the habituation process, which is more expensive than regular Gorilla treks.

COST OF GORILLA TREK AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

For regular mountain gorilla treks, the fee varies from season to season. The permit price during the high season is USD 600 per person while during the low season it is USD 350 per person which is way lower than what the neighbouring countries offer. Permits for a gorilla habituation experience are much higher. It will make you poorer by USD 1500 per person.

BEST TIME TO GO FOR GORILLA TREK AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

December to March and June to October are the best months for both regular Gorilla Treks and for being a part of Habituation programs. In the month of January, the mountain gorillas alongwith other animals congregate around water bodies making themselves easily visible.

SOUL WINDOW TIPS WHEN VISITING BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

• If you are below the age of 15, you need to wait. It is not allowed for you and rightly so!
• Stand still, if the silverback or other gorillas start beating their chest!
• Behave when you are around Mountain Gorillas. Do not be very close to them and stay together in a tight group.

• Loud noises, music and hooliganism is a big no-no. Do not bring disgrace to the human race by doing so.
• Wear full length shirts and pants in mellow colors or pastel shades. Bright colors are a big no-no. Apply mosquito repellents on your exposed body parts.
• Eating, drinking, smoking on the Gorilla trek is not allowed.

• Make sure that your group does not surround the gorillas from all sides.
• Do not step on the stems beneath your fit or be prepared to fall every now and then. Beware of thorns as well.
• If you have a communicable disease, like viral, diarrhea or the flu, inform the staff. You will not be allowed due to the fear of transmitting these diseases to the mountain gorillas.

• Photography tip: Change your lens beforehand. If you still have to change during the trek, do not keep it on ground. Ask your friends or guide to hold the other lens while you do it. Otherwise, the gorillas can take it away and it will be difficult or impossible to get it back.
• Flash photography is not allowed, respect it!
• Do not try to play with the offsprings of Gorilla

• Wear good sturdy shoes.
• Carry a raincoat at all times

• There are not many shops selling food and water nearby. Carry small snacks and at least 2-3 liters of water per person. If you forget to carry the same, then request the locals for bananas and sugarcane juice or better still the banana beer! Keep all the edibles in a bag if you are around the gorillas. Even drinking water in front of the gorillas is not allowed.
• Carrying a walking pole helps even if you are fit. If you forget one, pls ask your local guide to make one for you from tree branches.

THE GORILLA NEST AND ASSORTED POOPS EXPLAINED BY GUIDE OF BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA:

The guide showed us the nest of Gorillas with poop on various types. I didn’t have a modicum of idea that gorillas make nest! The guide showed us the temporary nests which gorillas make and mark their territory by pooping on it. The silverback males sleep always on the nests made at ground level while the females and the offspring sleep on the trees. The nests are made daily by each individual.

One nest fits only one gorilla and made by himself/herself. The gorillas settle in the nest before it gets dark and spend the night here, sleeping. Sometimes, they also build nest for sleeping during the day. A fresh nest is made every day by the gorillas by pulling down the branches of bushes. The layering and anchoring of branches by the highly intelligent gorillas make it a very strong nest, I examined. It seemed fit to handle the immense weight of the gorillas.

Gorillas also make nests on tree nests where females (along-with infants) prefer to sleep. My guide could easily tell if the poop belongs to male, female or an infant after taking a quick look at the different poop shapes and size on the nests.

TERRAIN OF GORILLA TREK AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

It was an easy trek for me but if you are not used to treks, unlike me, it can be quite challenging. The gorilla trek route is through very dense forests. There are many routes depending upon the movement of the gorilla family.

But if you are taking the route which I did, you will be climbing only in ascending order from the start point as you live easier terrains, passing kids playing basketballs and tea estates. A Church marks the start of the trekking trail.

SOUVENIRS AND GIFTS TO BUY AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA:

Just after the tea estates, you will come across the locals selling Gorillas made from local wood and other handicrafts from Uganda, Africa. The wooden gorillas they were selling were carved very nicely and were of great quality. Due to lack of time, I failed to buy one thinking I can buy it anywhere in Uganda.

However, none of us were able to find a similar piece. I settled for another wooden gorilla in a shop near the equator, which was not as good as the one we saw at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. So, if you like it, just pick it up. It comes in various size and price range.

 

You will also see many local kids selling Gorilla paintings costing INR 100 per piece. Those are cute and makes for a wonderful souvenirs back home. I was running out of local cash, otherwise I would have picked 3-4 just to support local community. The painting of a fat gorilla with ‘I am happy’ written in the dialogue box was my favorite.

What else to buy at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park? Banana beer and local bananas.

ECHUYA BATWA AKA PYGMIES OF BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

“The primates found in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park are Chimpanzees, colobus monkey, Mountain Gorillas and humans (Pygmies aka Echuya Batwa people)”, the local guide told us, anticipating chuckles from us. One pygmy woman aka Echuya Batwa woman crossed our path as we maneuvered our way through the uneven tracks of the trail. She mumbled something in her language, which seemed like unpleasantness at our presence.

We came across a resting place midway through the Gorilla trek, near which was an Echuya Batwa home. The minority pygmy or Echuya Batwa people used to stay in the zones which are protected now. They had been rehabilitated long ago to strengthen the security of gorillas, however, their simple but sturdy hut built with grass and sticks has been retained as an attraction for the trekkers.  I peeped in and saw a small plain room with a space for kitchen.

Unfortunately the indigenous people today are as endangered as the gorillas. People belonging to the Batwa tribe are hunter-gatherers who migrated from Ituri forest of Democratic Republic of Congo long ago, looking for wild animals for hunting purpose. Bafumbira, another indigenous tribe also lives here.

WHERE TO STAY AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

The Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge and Silveback Lodge are good options. Silverback Lodge in association with The African Wildlife Foundation promotes conservation tourism. Budget Rooms, luxury hotels, lodges and tented camps are available near Buhoma entrance gate.

HOW TO REACH BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

The park is located in a remote location. You can either drive down or hop on a chartered flight from Entebbe International Airport, Uganda to airstrip at Kisoro.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is just 2-3 hrs away from Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda.

You can also board the daily bus from Kampala for Butogota via Rukungiri and Kihiihi. The drive from Kampala, via Mbarara, takes 6 to 8 hours. The southern is close to Kabale town (1-2 hours).

BANANA BEER AKA SORGHUM AND TEA ESTATES AT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

Just as we embarked upon the trekking trail, a beautiful tea garden vied for our attention. I had seen tea gardens of India and Sri Lanka only. Seeing one in Africa was unexpected as I had heard only about the famed African coffee. We moved on, passing many banana trees.

Our trek-mates even offered us some fresh bananas from this region. The trek leader stopped at one point to show us the area where banana beer was being processed few days ago. The ash were a tell tale sign. You can read here if you want to know the process of making banana beer which is quite popular in East Africa.

We marched on hoping to sip some banana beer on return. A small kid peeped at us curiously from behind his/her home.

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA, AFRICA

1. The Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is super rich in bio diversity. It is home to 348 species of birds, 220 species of butterflies, 120 species of mammals and 27 species of frogs. Reptiles like geckos and chameleons are also found here.
2. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is located South western part of Uganda.
3. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park shares border with Virunga National Park in Democratic Republic of the Congo.

   

4. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is a part of Bwindi Impenetrable forest.
5. I saw many huge ferns during the gorilla trek. No wonder 104 species of ferns are found in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park along-with 163 species of trees and 1,000 species of flowering plant.

   

6. Gorilla treks are allowed in the regions of Ruhijja, Nkuringo, Buhoma, Rushaga with the supervision of Uganda Wildlife Authority.
7. 14 families of gorillas have been trained for Gorilla Treks.
8. Peak rainfall season at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is from March to April (I went in 1^st week of March) and September to November.
9. Some other animals, butterflies and birds found in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park are African elephant, small cream-banded swallowtail, African green broadbill, antelope species, the giant forest hog, common chimpanzee, L’Hoest’s monkey, red-tailed monkeys, vervets, black and white colobus, African golden cat, African civet and side-striped jackal.
10. The conservation at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park has been successful as number of gorillas in this region is rising over the years.

Disclaimer: I was invited on a Fam trip organised by Embassy of Uganda in India. The participants of the trip were Indian Film Industry stalwarts and TAFI members. The aim of the trip was to scout locations for shooting Indian movies in Uganda and of course, promoting Uganda in India. My co travelers were veteran actor Mr. Bharat Radhakant Dabholkar, producers of the blockbuster Bahubali film Mr. Srinivas Saiprasad Devineni, Mr. Naga Sobhanadri Yarlagadda and Mrs. Latha Kovelamudi, Line producer Mr. Ramakrishnan Natarajan, actor Mr. Jeetu Verma, TAFI members Mrs. Aditi Ramakant Bhende, Mr. Bharat Kirankumar Shah, Mr. Jayesh Manharlal Tharani, Mr. Vishal Saria, vice consul of Uganda in Mumbai and Mr. Sumit Chaturvedi  – Anchor

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