Last Updated on December 10, 2016 by
This November, I discovered a totally different side to Goa. Not many know that Goa has a sizeable Marathi population and they celebrate their festivals with aplomb and in style. I got the opportunity to attend one such festival. The boat festival celebrated as Tripurari Poornima is one of its kind festival close to the heart of Goans. Its North Indian counterpart is called Dev Deepawali. But the rituals and celebrations are as similar as Bebinca and Gulab Jamun.
Tens of boats were lined up at the temple campus before their owners decided it is time to carry them to the lake for the final grand ceremony. These boats were lovingly crafted by the artisans from all corners of Goa for the final grand rituals. All roads led to the nondescript Vithalapur in Sankhali which came alive with festive fervor. It is an hour drive away from Panaji. The designs on the boats were unique and quirky.
My favourite were: A weird looking ‘ugly duckling’, a new age monster and a dragon threatening to spew fire. The largest boat however stole all the thunder. It depicted the tough life of the fishermen of Goa. Life size human figures flanked either sides of the boat and one stood above captaining the boat. Most of such boats were made up of local materials such as coconut shells, palm, paper, wood, thermocol etc.
All of a sudden my attention was won by a Marathi music concert going on nearby. A fan of all things Marathi, I couldn’t help but run towards the venue to catch local ‘lavani’ songs. I am a huge lavani fan. I thought these were limited to Maharashtra but I was proven pleasantly wrong. I stood there enjoying one song after another, enjoying the camaraderie and rapport of the performers, so characteristic of Maharashtrians. I was overjoyed like thousands other when they played the famous lavani chartbuster, ‘Mala jau Dya Na Ghari, Ata Vajle te bara!’ (Let me go home, it’s midnight!). Sadly for me, there was no lavani dance, just the songs.
Next, a food stall nearby attracted my attention in no time. I ran again in search of vada pao and samosa pao. I got both and like an overjoyed kid, filled my face with it. More than I should have. The one thing I miss the most after having shifted to Ghaziabad from Navi Mumbai is the Maharashtrian food and culture (festivals/people/language). The other journalists and the guide with me were Marathis speaking and I spoke in Marathi with them for the 3 days I was in Goa. It was my way of switching on my Marathi soul once again; funnily in Goa.
This was my 9th trip to Goa and for the first time it was not from Mumbai. When I used to travel from Mumbai, I didn’t notice the Marathi presence; perhaps because I was so used to all things Marathi that I lost all objectivity and didn’t notice the similarity between Goa and Maharashtra. Or perhaps because my stay in the last 8 trips was almost always limited to the touristy spots! Never mind, I am determined to spend my next Goa vacation off the touristy trail.
After having my Marathi fill (and grinning foolishly from ear to ear about it!), I along with other bloggers and journalists veered off to the main venue where all the boats were waiting for us, calmly floating in the pond. We passed many Maharashtrian style homes. The locals had displayed their own versions of small boats outside the main gates of their house. Rangolis and Kandeels (lamps) added to the home décor.
Diwali in 2016 fell on 30th October and there I was celebrating Diwali like festival all over again on 14th November. Saree (worn in Maharashtrian style) clad women sat in their lawns scented with customary ‘Tulsi’ planted prestigiously in the middle. Tulsi aka basil has medicinal properties and is much revered by Hindus across India. The venue was filled with people, most of them locals along with few tourists and international media. Within few minutes, the palanquin (palki) procession of Vithal Rakhumai pierced the crowd, stealing all the limelight.
We settled at a pedestal reserved for media and watched the intriguing proceedings unfold. The looming presence of a benevolent Supermoon made it all the more delightful. Supermoon occurs when the proximity of Earth to Moon is the least. This makes the Supermoon the brightest and largest. The next such moon will appear in 2034. A Ravanasque effigy stood in the middle of the pond, slightly away from the congregation of boats. A drama of good versus bad ensued on a boat and the effigy was burnt. It triggered a series of fireworks up in the sky. This gave the festival a touch of North Indian Dussehra. We looked at the massive crowd and left before everyone started to leave. This saved us from traffic chaos.
Enriching experiences like these unfold in the unknown corners of Goa and India all the time, away from the tourists who are focused on the tested and tried. You know who is at a loss here!
When: This festival happens during Karthik Poornima. It occurs 15 days after Deepawali, on the full moon.
Where to stay: Hotel Miramar, Panaji. Walking distance from the beach, it is a no nonsense hotel with sprawling lawns, a swimming pool and room in cottage style buildings. The rooms are air-conditioned, basic and neat. It has a restaurant and a bakery nearby.
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16 thoughts on “Offbeat Goa: Unique Boat Festival during Tripurari Poornima aka Dev Deepawali!”
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The boats look imaginative. I like the idea of creating miniature boats. It is easy to carry them during the parade.
You should have taken a video too for this.
Wow this looks like an amazing festival to experience. Your photos are amazing of the parade. India and certainly Goa have been high on my list for such a long time.
I have never been to Goa, but India is a country high on my list to visit. This looks like a great festival, I do not know much about the indian festivals so it is interesting to hear about them from you. Looks like it would certainly be an interesting time to visit as I love to see parades like these 🙂
I was in Goa for the lead up to this festival, so I saw a few of the preparations and the models being constructed, but I left just before the festival itself! After reading this, I’m definitely wishing I’d stuck around a little longer, it looks like an amazing experience!
I have read so much about Goa, I’ve even visited Goa but I’ve never heard of the Tripurari Poornima festival. This would be a great alternative way to enjoy the state. You captured the colors and atmosphere of the festival magically!
The statue is so creepy and look very very angry woa! We love travelling while there are festivals an rituals. Never heard of this one and would LOVE to see it in real life! Love your pictures, really inspires us.
This looks like a great festival. I love these colors in the darkness – makes this whole atmosphere very special. I would like to see one day such Tripurari Poornima with my own eyes, hopefully on a longer India trip, since this country is for me really fascinating.
The festival looks amazing! I really need to go to Goa!
Wow, this looks so cool. the festival, the singing, the food everything. And to get a supermoon on top of that must have been amazing. I have never been to Goa but it is high up on my list. When I go I will refer to this post and make sure to get off the tourist trail a bit. great post!
This festival looks amazing. Offbeat and colourful! Two of my favourite things:) India has so much going on that it can be difficult to find these smaller festivals. Thanks for tips!
What an amazing experience you have been through. I love when I travel to a place and get amazed by the things happening around me. India has so many different cultures and traditions, different from state to state. And funnily enough, my first encounter with India was when I visited London for the first time and ended up in a massive Hare Krishna celebration that started in Hyde Park and ended in Trafalgar Square. I remember how amazed I was. I would love to experience more Indian local traditions. You are so lucky!