Last Updated on December 5, 2019 by asoulwindow
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BEST AUTHENTIC RAJASTHANI VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN FOOD IN PUSHKAR FAIR! INCREDIBLE INDIA!
This blog is a part of my series on the Pushkar fair of Rajasthan in Incredible India. Check out all my blogs in the series which apart from many interesting aspects of Pushkar fair, lists down information like – Best time to go to Pushkar, Best things to eat in Pushkar Fair, How to reach Pushkar Fair, Offbeat things to do in Pushkar etc. This blog is about the best authentic Rajasthani Vegetarian and vegan food in Pushkar Fair. Incredible India.
Hungry after my worst train ride ever, I zeroed in on the rustiest looking ‘dhabha’ (No fuss basic restaurant in a tent). I sat on a plastic-steel chair and waited for food to arrive on the rough wooden plank. I had ordered a Rajasthani Thali (Pre portioned plate). There were bouts of tsunamis in my mouth just anticipating the food.
The tsunami threatened to burst from my mouth when the Thali arrived. The Thali had Baati , chopped radish , spiced up chillies, dal (lentils) , kadhi, and a very spicy and oily curry. I enjoyed dipping the baati in the assorted gravies. Baatis are thick spherical Rajasthani breads.
Baatis are wheat dough rolled into balls and baked in wood fired oven. In some version they are baked in the heat of smouldering ‘kandiya’ aka ‘upla’ (dried cow dung cakes). It made me crave for one of those al fresco winter bonfire parties at my home in Lucknow where we roast sweet potatoes, potatoes, paneer tikka , baati chokha etc. It tastes best on a chilly winter night. Water was served in a plastic mug , the kind that are used in India for taking baths.
Before it turned dark, I was back in Pushkar and had to leave for Udaipur the same night. It was an impromptu decision by me as I didn’t see any logic in staying in Pushkar for three consecutive days. So I sacrificed the events of my third day to accommodate another gem of a city Udaipur. I still had time and was hungry too. I came across a cart selling “Farash, Sugar, Kean, Gus” (I am copying it verbatim here). Before you even begin to think it is some exotic dish, let me demystify the code language here. After applying spell check it should read, “Fresh Sugar Cane Juice”.
Rejecting the idea, I instead opted for hot sweetened milk topped with frothy cream. It was served straight from a huge iron‘kadahi’ (wok), still simmering romantically over gentle heat. It’s the perfect drink for a North Indian winter evening.
Then I dunked my fingers in sticky sugar syrup while trying to get hold on the fresh hot ‘Malpua’ (A sweet pancake dipped in sugar syrup). It had me drooling and begging for more. But I was anticipating more gastronomic orgasms in the offing, so I had to keep space in the stomach.
After having packed my bag and checking out of my hotel, I rushed to the roadside Dhaba-ish restaurant I had been eyeing for the past two days. I ordered the combo of Makke di roti, Sarso Ka Saag and Lassi (Corn/Maize bread, Green Mustard leaves curry and a thick sweetened Yoghurt drink). It was served with roughly chopped onions and green chillies. I ordered Lassan Chutney (Garlic chutney) as well. It exceeded my expectations. It was definitely the best makke di roti and sarso ka saag I have had in my entire life.
Though makke ki roti and sarso ka saag are essentially Punjabi dishes yet is popular in most North Indian cities. The butter drizzled on the sarso ka saag gave it that added zing.
It was the first time that I had Lassan Chutney and must say I am big fan since. Post this dinner, I have tried to find similar tasting lassan chutney in restaurants elsewhere with zilch success. It was deep red in color and had a pungent spicy taste to it. I ordered buttered Baajre ki roti (Bread made from Pearl millet, very popular in states of Rajasthan, Haryana, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Gujarat) to go with it. The sweet lassi was the perfect antidote to all things spicy.
It was heavy, filling and delicious. The breads were warm and crisp as they were taken out fresh from a wood fired oven tended by the women of the house. This open kitchen sort of added to the ambience and the whole dining experience of Rajasthan. Perhaps, it is this personal touch of local women which gave the dishes their taste and authenticity. The restaurant’s name is “Shree Karani Maa Restaurant” The huge green dot in a square (Can’t thank animal activist Maneka Gandhi enough for this innovative idea) screamed that it is a ‘Shudh shaakahari bhojanalaya’ (Pure vegetarian eatery-vegan food also available here!).
The ambience ain’t anything to write home about. Come here rather for the authentic rural cuisine at its best and at a throwaway price. My bill for all the orders didn’t exceed Rs.150/-. It’s located near the famous Brahma temple. Just take a right turn just before you reach the temple and you will see a lane dedicated to roadside eatries. Dodge the other eateries that mark the street (and attract more customers maybe because of being the first in the lane), and head to this restaurant for that perfect meal. You will not be disappointed! So impressed I was with the food that after the meal, I had to go to the restaurant manager and thank him for such lovely dinner.
Hungry for more, the day I returned from Udaipur, I returned to the same restaurant for an authentic Rajasthani lunch, Gatta masala with steamed rice. Gatta masala is gram flour paste cut in different shapes such as square/ diamond/rectangle and dipped in a yogurt based tangy curry. It’s the signature vegetarian dish of Rajasthan and very delicious. Daal Baati Choorma is also a must try here.
On the 3rd day of me exploring Pushkar fair, hungry, solo and cash strapped, I lucked upon a free ‘langar’ food bang opposite the quirky Rural Circus of Pushkar Fair. It seemed like God sent. Langars are free food for all , sponsored mainly by donations. I stood in the line (Surprisingly no stampede here!) and my plate was filled with ‘pulaav’ (Indian vegan spiced fried rice) and vegetables.
Satiated, as soon as I exited other group was distributing free ‘laddus’ (a popular Indian sweet). What more can one want in life than free food along with free desserts? And who says there are no free lunches in this world? Drag them down to India.
The narrow lanes outside the lake and ghats is bustling with hotels, restaurants, religious shops etc. To my surprise, I found many restaurants selling dishes from around the world such as pasta, pizzas, lasagnas, baklava, hummus and pita bread, thai curry and of course good old reliable Chinese or should I say Sino Ludhianvi (The term coined by veteran journalist Vir Singhavi for the Indian Chinese food).
I knew it had to do with the influx of foreigner tourists. Also catering to them were the restaurants with live bands or at least western music playing on their terrace garden restaurant.
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You will not believe this but I had a meal at the same restaurant in Pushkar – Mata Karni one. And I loved it. The simple bajre ki roti and dahi ka saag with gur….it would be amazing in winters. Your post got me completely nostalgic.
Great post! the food looks delicious:)
Thank you Rashmi 🙂
I love Rajsthani food anytime although they are generally heavy on stomach. All food mentioned here are very authentic Rajsthani foods and are mouth watering. The authentic Dal Baati will be yes anytime for me.
Yes, heavy they are. Moderation is the key 🙂
We were there a few years back and two items which do not find mention here are, Kadhi-Kachori for the morning snack and Gulkand Makkhaniya Lassi… Still craving for the super food!!!
True. I did try Kadhi-Kachori and Gulkand Makkhaniya Lassi in Jodhpur. It was delicious!
Wow all dishes looks delicious. I love Rajasthani food.
Yup, me too!
The food looks so good. I wish i could try pictures are amazing
Pushkar is a great place to visit. I will make sure I visit here to have delicious food!!
This place is on my list since a long time. Seems like you had a great time
Wow the food looks lovely. I love Rajasthani food and once in a month hopping on to a restaurant for authentic food is my ritual. But I am sure food at Pushkar will have greater value. Lovely post and pictures.
Authentic Rahasthani foods! My mouth full of water.
Thank you for taking in the gastronomic journey of Pushkar. What lovely images, truly mouth watering.
Wow rajasthani food is always tempting. I loved the malpua pic drool worthy.
I have spent two years at Rajasthan and fell in love with Rajasthani cuisine. I learnt to make a few dishes too especially dal baati and kair sangri. Brilliant post.
I love gooood authentic Indian food and anything chutney! This post is making me salivate… It’s awesome how many vegetarian and vegan options there are in Pushkar!
This post makes me hungry and all Rajasthani dishes are so delicious in which some of them are favorites. Dal Bati is Irresistible and that too in such a Rajasthani background. Meetha sev and Malpua is perfect dessert after a spicy and authentic cuisine in Pushkar mela.
So tempted to visit there! Such irresistible yummy food
That picture of malpua stole the show here ❤ 😁 love reading this travel post
Lassan chutney sounds really tempting and the article is really well written..!
I once had Bajra Roti and homemade Dahi at a local’s house in Bhuj and its something that I’ll never forget. It was so so delicious!!! Lassan chutney is just too tempting… Its literally making me hungry. Meetha Sev is the perfect dessert in the desert! Lolz..
Rajasthan is my mother land and as i am marwari too this food attracts me very fast…
The pishkar fair looks like a heaven for Desi street food of Rajasthan. The pictures look very interesting.
I’m a Marwari and these pics of Dal Baati, gatte ki sabzi and lassan ki chutney brought back some great memories. Wish to go to Pushkar some day.
I have heard a lot about this fair in Pushkar from Rajasthani friends I am always a huge fan of Rajasthani food especially the garlic sauce and Gatte ki sabzi
I am drooling already. I went to Pushkar I think 7 to 8 times the best season is Jan when there is Pushakar Mela as well. Its a lovely place and food is just perfect,
Your post brought back fond memories of Pushkar and Ajmer! Very well written! It makes me hungry as well 🙈
We went to Pushkar last year! The shopping and food was amazing!
I really freak out on Rajasthani food. Probably the best and most authentic food can be found in these kinds of smaller Dhabas. You had tsunamis in your mouth waiting for the food, but my palate is roaring with anticipation by merely looking at the pictures. Though I cannot get to Pushkar immediately, probably will need to head to the nearest town serving Rajasthani cuisine.
Your post brought back many memories from my last years trip to Rajasthan. I tasted dal bhati sans the churma in one of the roadside Rajasthani dhabas and remember gulping tumblers of water not able to withstand the spice levels. The chaas made with makkai was a relief to tone down the spice levels on my palate. I had tried lasooni chutney at a feudal home in Chandelao. The Farash Sugar Kean Gus is one thing I would love to try next time 🙂
I’m not vegetarian, and unfortunately not keen on Indian food, but I’ll take your word on the dishes being delicious here! You describe it so well that it makes me want to give it another go! Your photos also capture well the ambience of this area.
My husband loves Indian cuisine so I read this with great interest. I was just disappointed to find that there were very few vegetable dishes, mostly different types of bread and curry sauces. In other words, more carbs than veggies.
All the dishes looks awesome and purily like rajasthani food. Never tried daal bhatti churma but heard a lot about it.wish to try all these rajasthani dishes soon. Very informative post.
Wow! The food looks amazing. We are planning a trip to India next year.
Pushkar has been on my wish list for the longest time
I’m salivating just looking at the pics because Rajasthani cuisine is one of my favourite cuisines .
wow so many dishes to try in rajasthan
very helpful food to try details
get tempted to visit after reading the post ..LOL