Baleshwar Mahadev Temple: Heritage of Chand Dynasty in Champawat!

Last Updated on January 1, 2023 by asoulwindow

Table of Contents

Information about Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is a lesser-known temple located in Champawat city of Uttarakhand near Lohaghat, Abbott Mount, Tanakpur, Dharchula, Pithoragarh and Munsiyari. As many as 3 main temples are located within the same temple complex or Baleshwar group of temples. The historic Baleshwar Temple, a shrine devoted to Shiva Bhagwan is a must-visit place in Champawat Uttarakhand. This Indian National Heritage Monument is still off the beaten track and located far away from the crowds! In fact, we were the only ones present when we visited the temple. Despite spending 1-2 hours in the temple, we hardly saw any other visitors.

Uttarakhand is one of the most serene, holiest, pollution-free, uncrowded and untouched regions of India. It is known as Dev Bhoomi or ‘land of Gods’ for a reason! Every region or even a small town of Uttarakhand is known for its own deities. The several Gods and Goddesses who live in various parts of Uttarakhand are also revered as the protector of the villagers. Located in the lower Himalayan highlands, this temple is one of its kinds.

Bird's eye view of Champawat Town, Uttarakhand
Bird’s eye view of Champawat Town, Uttarakhand

Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is the top place to visit in Champawat Uttarakhand. Situated away from the crowds, this unexplored temple is a must-visit.

I have explained various aspects of this temple in this exhaustive blog. Here is why Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is one of the best places to see in Champawat.

My Experience of visiting Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir

I have travelled to several parts of Uttarakhand since the year 2008. In fact, my first independent trip started from Uttarakhand way back in 2008. However, Pithoragarh and Almora region of this holy land always eluded me. I had only faintly heard about Champawat and Tanakpur until I visited here myself. The names sounded fairy-tailish. It turned out to be exactly that!

I was accompanied by my two blogger friends Mrs. Lakshmi Sharath and Ms. Ambica Gulati. It was a memorable short trip with them. It was also their first time visiting this region. As soon as we left the plains of Tanakpur, bidding adieu to our shy but lovely local hosts (yes, they looked Pahari!), the serpentine curves of mountains swallowed us.

As soon as we entered Champawat, we visited the tea gardens first. After a quick breakfast and loo break, soon we headed towards the busy Champawat market, picking a slightly ascending narrow lane which was situated closest to the temple. The naula appeared first, followed by the modest entrance of the Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir. The temple indeed turned out to be a hidden gem.

What followed next took my breath away! Who would have thought that such an intricately carved temple complex lies hidden in a quiet corner, just few steps away from the chaos and noise of the main market. The lesser-known Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir turned out to be one of the best offbeat places in Uttarakhand which I have visited. I also noticed several statues of the sacred Nandi Bull across the temple premises.

Nandi Bull at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple
Nandi Bull at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Before I entered the temple premises, I glanced over the small tree laden with a bunch of oranges. A huge statue of Hanuman ji was also visible outside the walls of the temple complex. Read more to know what followed next!

Soul Window Moments

The pujari ji at Shri Baleshwar Mahadev Temple told me that having a darshan of Shivalinga here is akin to having a darshan at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple of Varanasi in my home-state Uttar Pradesh.

I feel blessed that I was able to have darshan at both these temples within a span of few days. Just a few days after I returned from Champawat, I was invited to visit Varanasi. It was my first darshan in Shri Kashiwanath temple.

Main Shivalinga at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Main Shivalinga at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Why is Baleshwar Mahadev Temple famous?

What is special about Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir? It is a frequently asked question. Here is all you wanted to know about why Baleshwar Temple is so famous and revered. It is one of the best tourist places in Uttarakhand.

During my travels across the scenic Kumaun region of Uttarakhand, I have noticed that the lives of local people revolve around worship of several local deities, Gods and Goddesses. Being the holy land of Gods, almost every important place in Uttarakhand is associated with one deity or another. Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir turns out to be the most famous temple in the Champawat district and nearby regions.

Below are the main reasons why Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is so famous:

  • Erotic Art
  • Unusual figures
  • Human figures
  • Unusual artwork
  • Beautiful temples
  • Exquisite carvings
  • Several Shivalingas
  • Picturesque setting
  • Venue for major festivals
  • An important place of pilgrimage
  • Lush Green jungles and Himalayan backdrop
  • Exquisite figures of Hindu gods and goddesses

This is why Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is one of the best places to visit in Champawat. You are reading the most comprehensive travel guide to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat. Unheard-of places like these are never found in traditional guide books and mainstream media. This is why, I want people to learn about such lesser-visited places of Uttarakhand through my detailed travel guides.

The deep insights I have shared in this information packed blog are very well researched and based on my own travel experience here.

Sphatik Shivalinga at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Sphatik Shivalinga at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Who is the main deity of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat?

The main presiding deity who Hindus worship in the Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is Shiv Bhagwan. Interestingly, I observed that not one but several Shivalingas were worshipped here throughout the temple precincts. I saw several Shivalingas here, 3 of which were installed in the same row in a partly damaged temple structure.

I also noticed an unusual Sphatik Shivling here. It is known for its miraculous properties, which is also why devotees throng here.

Soul Window Observations

I have visited many Shiva temples such as Bhimashankar in Maharashtra, Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi, Brihadeeswarar Mandir in Thanjavur, Murudeshwar Temple in Karnataka, Shankaracharya temple in Srinagar, Virupaksha Temple of Pattadakal and so on.I noticed that none of these temples were similar to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat, whether in design or atmosphere.

Do also read my blogs on Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, Kailash Parbat, Rakshas Tal and Mansarovar Lake. In early days, Champawat was the first major stop where the devotees used to stop before they proceeded towards Dharchula for Kailash Mansarovar Yatra. Even today, it is one of the main routes for the yatra in West Tibet.

Nomenclature/Etymology of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Since Bhagwan Shiva, the presiding deity here is also known as Baleshwar, therefore this medieval temple is called as Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir. This place is also known as Baleshwar group of temples or Baleshwar Mandir Samooh because there are many temples in the compound here.

Baleshwar temple is known after the character of Bali or Vali from the Hindu epic Ramayan. Bali had magical powers which he used to create anarchy in this place. Therefore, Shankar Bhagwaan appeared to stop him from doing more damage. This is why this group of temples is known as Baleshwar temple complex.

Interestingly, the pujari ji in the temple told us that the Champawat town is named after Champawati Devi. She was a kuldevi of Chandra Gaanv.

Where is Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir located?

Where is the Baleshwar Mandir located in Uttarakhand? Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is located in the heart of the hill station of Champawat in Uttarakhand. Champawat is sandwiched between Tanakpur and Lohaghat and Abbott Mount. Obscurely nestled amidst the lower Kumaon hills, Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is easy to miss!

Soul Window Concerns

Presently, Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is surrounded by both ugly and gorgeous homes of local people. But I am sure, when it was constructed centuries ago, not much existed here. Located on a hilltop, it would have looked stunning and outstanding without the residential buildings that surround the temple today.

Champawat town grew up over the years in leaps and bounds leading to shortage of space. Hence, people started to construct homes near the temple. Since Baleshwar Temple is a monument of national importance, steps must be taken by ASI to remove the encroachment in the area. We must protect our national heritage for the posterity.

Abhinav Singh Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Author Abhinav Singh at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand. Pic by: Mrs. Lakshmi Sharath

The exact location of the Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir lies somewhere on the NH125 in the main market of the Champawat town. Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is also located close to Punjab National Bank (PNB) and district hospital road.

A modern-day golden gate vied for my attention as we walked through the busy streets of Champawat market. A trishul (trident) and bhagwa (saffron) flag which sat atop the gate which had ‘Shri Baleshwar Mahadev’ written on it, helped us locate the temple easily. This gate is right opposite Major Jay Dutt Selia General Store, Nainital Bank and Shubham Restaurant (They have clean toilets in basement!).

Himalayan landscape and Views

What makes the location of Baleshwar temple is the fact that the mighty Himalayan Mountain Ranges can be seen from many parts of Champawat district. The landscape of this region is to be seen to be believed. This is why it is a must-see place in Uttarakhand. Several major attractions of Uttarakhand are located in nearby areas.

Some of the best places to see snow clad Himalayan mountains are the viewing platform or machan at the tea estates. There are many picnic spots here which, both the local people and tourists visit. A simple drive around Champawat can also throw beautiful surprises which you were not looking for. Remember, each day is different when you travel!

History of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

The historical significance of Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is immense despite being a lesser-known place. Despite being a major sightseeing attraction of Champawat, not much is written about the history of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple.

Som Chand was the founder of the powerful Chand Dynasty in 10th century. He is credited with displacing the Katyuri Kings who had been ruling this area since 7th century C.E. Their rule was challenged by the Muslim invaders Rohillas from Rohilakhand in Uttar Pradesh.

The Rohilla could not win here eventually and the Chand Kings continued to rule until the Gorkhas conquered and established their Kingdom here in the year 1790 C.E. The vast expanse of the Chand kings included the Kumaon region of India and parts of the Farwestern Nepal known as Doti in what is now known as Sudurpashchim Province of Nepal.

This is what a local elderly man told me about history of Champawat,

“Brahmadev, who was the last Katyuri king, used to live in a place known as Suie in the nearby Lohaghat. Katyuris were medieval Hindu Rajput rulers.

So, when Somchand from Jhunsi, Prayagraj arrived in Champawat region, King Brahma Dev was impressed by his valour and personality. It is said that this is why he married his daughter Champawati to Somchand who was on his way to Badrinath and other destinations of Char Dham Yatra of Uttarakhand. This is when he briefly stayed in Champawat.

I have stayed in Prayagraj of Uttar Pradesh for 4 years in my childhood. Places like Jhunsi were part of my vocabulary in my formative years. Little idea did I have back then that I will learn new facts about these places a few decades later. This is why I keep saying that travel opens our minds in more ways than one.

Places to see in Champawat village
Lovely local houses built in traditional pahadi architectural style behind Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Soul Window Facts

Near Champawat, there is a trading and business center in a flat area in Nepal. When I visited Tanakpur, I learned that the Brahmadeo Mandi still exists by this name in Nepal. Many Indians visit the mandi daily.

What no one still knows is the fact that the Brahmadev mandi in the Kanchanpur District of Nepal was established by none other than the last of Katyuri king Brahma Deo, also spelt as Brahma Dev. This is why I travel. I would have never known these interesting facts had I stayed holed up in my home!

Did you know that the Katyuri dynasty was founded by Vashudev Katyuri, who is also known by the names Basu Dev or Vasu Dev? In fact, the Basdeo Temple, which is attributed to King Basu Dev is one of the oldest stone temples of Uttarakhand. The ancient Basdeo temple is located in Joshimath. Vasu Dev was a Buddhist who returned back to the Hindu faith and Brahminical practises of the Katyuri Kings.

Who built Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir?

Who constructed Baleshwar Mahadev Temple? It is a commonly asked question. Not many people know that Baleshwar Mahadev Temple was constructed by the locally famous emperors of the powerful Chand dynasty.

Soul Window Facts

Champawat was the first capital of the Chand Kings. This stronghold of Chand rulers was called as Kali Kumaun back then. It was named so because this part of Kumaun was located close to the Kali River. It is hard to believe that what is now a district headquarters town called Champawat, once used to be a powerful kingdom of Chand rulers. Som Chand, the founder of Chand Dynasty, used to call his state as Kurmanchal.

As per some sources, Baleshwar Temple was constructed by King Udyan Chand (1420-21) and was completed by King Vikram Chand (1423-1437). It is said that the main sculptor who built Baleshwar group of temples was known as Jagannath Mistri.

Who attacked Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir?

Who destroyed Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir? The same local elderly man educated us about the damages done to the temple over the years. He told us that The Rohilla Kings had damaged much of what is left of the temple complex today. Rohillas were Muslim rulers who belonged to Rohilkhand near Bareilly in my home-state Uttar Pradesh. Rohill dynasty was an Indo-Afghan dynasty who had Arab origins. It was in the year 1744 C.E. when Ali Muhammad Khan Rohilla, had invaded Kumaon. The kings of Chand dynasty were caught unawares and could not match up due to their limited resources.

But after capturing the nearby Almora, the generals of Ali Muhammad Khan Rohilla failed to cope with the tough hilly terrains. In those days, life in hills was not as comfortable as it is today. There were no street lights, tarred roads etc. They returned back only to attack again later in the year 1745 C.E. Fortunately they lost the battle and were nowhere to be seen again.

Year 1790 C.E. onwards, the Gorkhas from the now Nepal ruled Almora continuously for 24 years until Colonel Nicholls of the East India Company invaded the town by force. This is a lesser-known fact.

When was Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir constructed?

Baleshwar Mahadev Temple was constructed by Garud Gyan Chand in the year 1390 C.E. in the 14th century C.E. Due to the lack of any historical manuscript, some historians also believe that the temple may have been constructed as early as between 10th to 12th century C.E. As per some accounts, Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir was built in the year 1272 C.E.

However, what is confirmed is that, as is common with many Indian Hindu shrines, next Kings and rulers added to the temple structure in later centuries. For example, King Uday Chand initiated reconstruction projects for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. The reconstruction work was started in the year 1420 C.E. and continued till 1421 C.E.

From the inscription which were discovered at the Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, we now know that King Hari Chand, continued the reconstruction work of temple started by his predecessors. This copper plate inscription which was found at the temple premises has been dated by archaeologists and historians to 1423 C.E. King Hari Chand, ruled between the years 1423 C.E. and 1427 C.E. Several remnants from the era of once powerful Chand reign can still be seen in and around Champawat.

Also read: Story of Atmalinga

Carvings in ceiling of Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Intricate carvings in the ceiling of Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Architecture

The architecture of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, I observed is very unique. It was unlike any other temple I had visited. Whether I talk about its exquisite stone carvings or attention to detail or the unusual architecture or the picturesque setting, it is needless to say that this unique Shiva Temple stands out!

Built in South Indian architectural style or Dravidian style, it is maintained by ASI or Archaeological Survey of India since the year 1952 C.E. The stone craftsmanship I observed here deserves special mention. Each and every stone here speak volumes. This is why I request you to pause and observe each stone and the story it says.

What also makes the exquisite stone carvings of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple significant is the fact that it is one of the few such temples in this region where such fine carvings can still be seen. No other temple in this remote mountainous terrain of Uttarakhand can boast of so many medieval stone carvings. Several Hindu motifs can be observed here, much of which are made with granite stone. Different postures of Hindu deities and mythological creatures can be seen carved across the temple complex.

I was spellbound by the architecture of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, when I noticed the ceilings of the temples here. In its original form, the temples in this complex boasted of several magnificent structural features and had a sanctuary and mandap.  I craned my neck to appreciate the jaw dropping carvings across the ceilings of all the temples here. The artistic brilliance and ancient glory of medieval India indeed has few parallels in the world.

Shri Ratneshwar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Shri Ratneshwar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Shri Ratneshwar Temple

Located within the campus of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, Shri Ratneshwar Temple is not to be missed! I closely studied the temple walls and noticed various local deities in different and unusual postures. The exteriors of Shri Ratneshwar Temple merits a mention. It is worth it to pause here and notice the small details here. Each carving here deserves to be observed and appreciated. Be it any temple of India, the attention of detail always impresses me.

Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Champawati Durga Temple

Champawati Durga Temple is also a prominent temple located within the sprawling campus of the Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. Devoted to Maa Durga, I noticed interesting carvings on the walls of this temple.

Do not miss the carvings of Ganesh Bhagwan on the outer walls of the temple. The chains of beautiful patterns and faces of mythical creatures carved on the walls around the temple gate is worth a dekko. I had never seen anything like this before. Needless, to say, this temple is a top place to see in Champawat.

Carvings, Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Carvings on the outer walls of Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Queen Champawati was a very able and fearless queen of Champawat. I met an elderly local man near the naula who told me interesting things about her. People of Champawat and nearby areas still sing peans about her. This also goes on to show the gender equality which naturally prevails in Hindu society.

Old Inscription in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

This historical destination is an important place of interest in Uttarakhand. Much of what we know about the history of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is because of the tampatra or inscriptions which were discovered in the precincts of the temple. The discovery of such inscriptions is a little-known fact. You can still see this ancient inscription in the temple premises.

Soul Window Observations

I have seen similar important inscriptions in the Meguti Jain Temple of Aihole and even Baijnath Temple of Himachal Pradesh. Even during the Naneghat trek in Maharashtra, I saw many ancient inscriptions from the Satavahana era.  In the South Indian state of Karnataka, inscription have also been found in Badami.

Erotic art in Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Erotic art in Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Erotic art in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Just as I was leaving the premises of Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, my co-traveller pointed out towards the erotic art on the outer walls of the temple. I was spell bound to see several erotic arts on many walls of the temple. These are some lesser-known facts about this temple.

The best of these erotic arts and sculptures are located on the outer walls of the temple near the main entry gate of the temple complex.

Soul Window Thoughts

It is very common to see erotic art outside ancient Shiva temples of India and even Nepal. I observed erotic art on the outer walls of

Most people think that erotic art can be seen only in the temples of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh in Central India, which is far from the truth! Only travel can help us broaden our horizons! Or even reading my blogs, eh!

Erotic art in Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Erotic art and sculpture in Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Other structures in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Complex

As I walked around the temple compound, I noticed several ruined structures arranged nearly across the periphery of the temple.

Ancient Naula or Water tank near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Just as we entered the main gate of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, we came across a naula or water tank. I had not seen anything like this before! If this is not what going off the touristy trail’ means, then what does!

Naula or water tank. baleshwar group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Naula or water tank. Baleshwar group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand

This fresh water resource still supplies water to various temples as well as local homes. In fact, the water of this naula is offered to the Shivalinga inside the temple complex of Baleshwar.

I noticed beautiful carvings on most of the walls of this naula. There are even few stairs located here which are used for accessing the water. This naula was probably built in the 12th century C.E. Unfortunately, several ugly modern buildings have come up around the protected naula.

This ancient naula is located towards the southern end of Baleshwar Mandir. This square shaped stone structure is built in a depression, which means that in order to enter the small campus of the naula, I had to take few steps down from the narrow alleys.

Carvings in the premises of naula or water tank near Baleshwar Temple, Champawat
Carvings in the premises of naula or water tank near Baleshwar Temple, Champawat

The water source here is Earth itself, making it a natural water resource. In order to avoid rainwater from entering the naula, a small wall has been built around it. The intricate stone carvings seen in and around the naula is similar to what you may see in several other places in central Himalayan regions of India.

Village Walk near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Just when you exit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, turn right and walk uphill towards Kotwali Chabutra. You will see several beautiful old houses built with traditional Pahari architecture. These houses, which are painted in primary colours have a distinct architecture which is unique to this remote region of Uttarakhand. Also keep your eyes peeled for old style mud houses.

I noticed that a huge stone house with wooden roof also had several ancient carvings on its outer walls. It was possible that these intricately carved stones belonged to the Baleshwar group of temples. If true, it must be preserved for posterity. The same hut can be seen in this picture below.

Stone house with carving. Behind Baleshwar group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Stone house with carving. Behind Baleshwar group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Places to see in Champawat near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

There are several top places to see in Champawat near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. Some of the best tourist attractions to see in Champawat, apart from this unusual Shiva Mandir are listed as below:

Kotwali Chabutra

The pedestrian route to Kotwali Chabutra is uphill but scenic. We passed several beautiful wooden homes, colourful narrow alleys and breath-taking bird’s eye views of Lohaghat and terraced gardens from here. Even before I entered the gate of Kotwali Chabutra, I had stopped in my tracks to appreciate the beauty of the panoramic view of Champawat city that lied before my eyes. Right outside the Kotwali Chabutra, we were able to enjoy jaw dropping views of the valley!

The Kotwali Chabutra, which I am sure must have been a locally major structure in its heydays turned out to be underwhelming. Not much of it is left to be seen except the remains of what is a square shaped stone structure measuring 2.75 metres in length and 0.83 metres in height. The local people of Champawat also call it as Chabutra or Chomra. Such structures are commonly seen throughout the central Himalayan region of India and Uttarakhand.

Kotwali Chabutra. Top Place to see in Champawat, Uttarakhand
Kotwali Chabutra. Top Place to see in Champawat, Uttarakhand

I am sure it must have been a grand structure in old days. A huge stone umbrella must have roofed it and more intricate carvings must have adorned its walls, pillars and maybe even ceilings. I talked with some old local people who were passing by. However, the purpose of this structure is still not clear to me. If you know it then please let me know in the comments section below. It is believed by some that the local King must have sat here and listened to the grievances of people and gave justice.

It is also said the Kings and queens used to play the game of Chaupad etc at Kotwali Chabutara. This place was also perhaps used for the entertainment of the royal family back then. As per the historian Dr. Prashant Joshi, the King of Chand dynasty had constructed Kotwali Chabutra in 13th century C.E. You can still see ornate designs and motifs on whatever is left of the grand stone structure. It still looks like the remnants of a yesteryear Chaupal.

Despite its current state, it is a monument of national importance and must be preserved for future generations.

Botanical Tea Garden

The tea estates of Champawat surprised me. Mainstream media and traditional guidebooks hardly talk about it. This is why I decided to write upon it. It is possible to visit the tea garden for the tourists.

Author Abhinav Siingh at tea estates. Top Place to visit in Champawat, Uttarakhand
Author Abhinav Siingh at tea estates. Top Place to visit in Champawat, Uttarakhand. Pic by: Mrs. Laxmi Sharath

I had arrived a little late inside the garden. My co-travellers were already inside the tea garden premises. As soon as I entered the tea gardens, I saw Ambica ma’am walking down from the machan or the viewing platform. She highly recommended that I take those stairs and see the views from the machan. I didn’t think much of it but climbed anyways because FOMO (fear of missing out!).

It did turn out to a great vantage point to enjoy sweeping views of not only the tea gardens but also that of the Champawat city and colossal mountains enveloped in thick fresh snow. It was worth coming here, if only for the views.

The sprawling tea estates of Champawat also gives a nice opportunity to do birdwatching in Uttarakhand. My co-traveller Lakshmi ma’am preferred to miss the machan experience so that she could concentrate on taking some breath-taking shots of exotic birds such as red billed blue magpie.

Tea gardens with Himalayan views. Best Place to visit in Champawat, Uttarakhand
Tea gardens with Himalayan views. Best Place to visit in Champawat, Uttarakhand

Soul Window Facts

I had visited the tea gardens of Dharamshala, tea garden of Ooty, Temi tea garden of Sikkim, Tea Estates of Kerala, Assam, Munnar, Coonoor and Darjeeling etc. I had seen tea gardens of Ilam in Nepal from a distance. I had even visited a tea making factory in Sri Lanka.

But little did I know that tea gardens flourished in the distant Champawat region as well. This is why I travel. Even after decades of travelling around India and beyond, I am discovering many new interesting facts about my beautiful country India.

Top things to do in and around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

What is there to do here? There are many things to do with family and kids around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. From free walking tours to relishing the local dishes, there is a lot you can do here. Most of the points of attractions are also located close to each other.

Some of the best things to do in Champawat are:

  • Sample local cuisine.
  • Visit Tea estates of Champawat.
  • Take a walk in the busy market of Champawat.
  • Pick local pulses, spices and sweets from the shops.
  • Soak in the views of snow-clad Himalayan mountains.
  • Enjoy views of Lohaghat and terraced gardens from a distance.

Soul Window Travel Tips

Not many tell you about this, but do climb the machan or the viewing platform of the tea gardens of Champawat. I saw some of the most breathtaking views of Indian Himalayan range from this unhindered vantage point!

Excursions from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat

There are many interesting tourist attractions and places near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple which you can visit. For example, Pancheswar is located near the border between Nepal and India, at the confluence (sangam) of Saryu and Kali River. Distance between Pancheswar and Champawat is only 40 kilometres. Gwal Devta temple, similar to the Golu Devta Temple of Almora is a unique temple which is devoted to a revered native God of Kumaun.

Lohaghat is the most popular excursion from Champawat. Located on the banks of the Lohawati River, Lohaghat turns into a carpet of red in spring season because this is when the Rhododendrons, which are locally called as Buransh blooms in large numbers. Rhododendron is also the state flower of Uttarakhand.

View of Mount Abbott and Lohaghat from a home in Champawat, Uttarakhand
View of Mount Abbott and Lohaghat from a home in Champawat, Uttarakhand

Banasur Ka Qila which was constructed in honour of the son of King Bali of Ramayan, is also located nearby. This medieval era fort is one of the best places to visit near Champawat. The breath-taking views of snow-enveloped Himalayan peaks from this fort are an added bonus.

Some of the best excursions from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat are

  • Gunji
  • Almora
  • Kalapani
  • Lohaghat
  • Bhowali
  • Chaukori
  • Ghorakal
  • Tanakpur
  • Dwarahat
  • Kasar Devi
  • Munsiyari
  • Dharchula
  • Chauli ki Jali
  • Nanak Matta
  • Bhimtal Lake
  • Pitthoragarh
  • Lipulekh Pass
  • Banasur ka Qila
  • Naukuchia Taal
  • Nagnath Temple
  • Jageshwar Dham
  • Neem Karoli Baba
  • Patal Rudreshwar
  • Pancheshwar Dham
  • Maneshwar Temple
  • Reetha Meetha Sahib
  • Abbott Mount Church
  • Dandheshwar Temple
  • Katarmal Surya Temple
  • Lakhudiyar Rock painting
  • Kailash Mansarovar Yatra
  • Chitai Golu Devta Temple
  • Golu Devta or Gwal Devta
  • Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary
  • Advaita Ashram, Mayawati
  • Swami Vivekanand Ashram
  • Kranteshwar Mahadev Temple
  • Patal Bhuvaneshwar Cave Temple

Note: Golu Devta Temple, Bhimeshwara Mahadev Temple at Bhimtal and Nagnath Temple were also built during the rule of Chand Kings.

Festival of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

There are many festivals which are celebrated here. Some of the major festivals of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple are:

Mahashivratri

The main festival which is celebrated with much fanfare in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is Mahashivratri. On the pious occasion of Mahashivratri, Hindu devotees from all corners of Champawat and beyond pay a visit to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple and offer their sincere prayers to Shiv ji.  If you visit this temple during Mahashivratri, expect a crowded fair which takes place every year in the Baleshwar Mandir premises.

Special prayers are organised on the 1-day long Mahashivaratri festival in this temple. This is also when the temple is decorated with marigold flowers and other things.

Purnagiri Mela

Purnagiri Mela or Purnagiri fair is held during Navratra every once in a year. This festival takes place in Tanakpur, which is just 2 hours away from Champawat. Located on a hilltop near the Kali River, it is a very popular pilgrimage which Hindus take.

Devidhura Fair

This stone throwing festival occurs every once in a year on the auspicious occasion of Raksha Bandhan. It is a very unique festival in which two groups of people throw stones at each other while also protecting themselves with wooden shields.

People dance and sing while they are at it! The stone throwing ceremony ends when the local pujari shows up and intervenes. The unusual Devidhura Fair is celebrated in the Varahidevi Temple. Several forms of Goddess Varahi are worshipped here. It is also known as Maa Barahi Devi Temple. Not many know about such secret festivities around Uttarakhand.

Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Champawati Durga Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Vegan and Vegetarian Food in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

While there are no restaurants right outside Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, you can find a variety of places to eat, which are located in the main market of Champawat, which is located just 2-3 minutes’ walk away from the Baleshwar temple compound.

We also ate at the brilliant vegetarian food at the very famous Shiva Dhaba in Hapur. We sampled their Mysore Masala Dosa and tandoori Alu Paratha, both of which were excellent. Lakshmi ma’am being a South Indian approved of the taste and quality of the Dosa and the chutneys. It is rare to find good South Indian food in North India, so I was surprised as well. They also have very clean toilets and shops.

Erotic art on the walls of baleshwar Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Erotic art on the walls of baleshwar Mandir, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Is it safe to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple?

Yes, it is very safe to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple as a male or even a female solo traveller. People of Champawat, much like the people of most Indian hill stations are very friendly, polite, content and cheerful.

Souvenirs Shopping Guide to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

While there are no souvenir shops right outside Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, you can pick some of the local produce from the main market like we did. I bought Gahat ki daal, Bhat Ki Daal, Purple Munsiyari Rajma (Yes) and even half kilogram of local peanuts because their size was huge.

My co-travellers Mrs. Lakshmi Sharath and Ms. Ambica Gulati bought Bhang seeds (hemp seeds), Gaderi (huge local Colocasia), Baal Mithai and Chocolate (Baal Mithai without those homeopathic pills, as Ambica ma’am said). You can also buy different other varieties of kidney beans or rajma, different types of Bhat Ki Daal and variety of rice.

What currency is used in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple?

INR or Indian rupees is widely accepted for transactions in and around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple.

ATM around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

There are many ATMs in Champawat. However, since digital transactions are not very common here and ATM machines may or may not work always, it is better to carry some cash from Tanakpur or your base city such as New Delhi, Noida, Ghaziabad or Gurugram etc.

Photography Tips for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Architecture photography is best done during the golden hour which is the time around sunrise or sunset. We did end up with several amazing shots of the temple and its premises because it was the right time to shoot. Also, do not forget to take pictures of the small details on the walls such as erotic art.

Hire local tourist guide in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

A local tourist guide can help you understand the history of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple with accuracy. In our case, the in-house pujari or pundit ji told us some interesting facts about Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. But he may or may not be available all the time. So, it is better to hire a local guide for the same.

Languages spoken in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Kumaoni or Kumauni is the most spoken language in Champawat. However, most of the local people speak and understand Hindi fluently.

Toilet facility in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Unfortunately, I didn’t see any toilets outside Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. It is better to finish your business before visiting the temple. There are several toilets in the restaurants near the temple which we used. Make sure you buy something before using the toilets of random restaurants. We did!

Entry fee for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Visiting Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is a free thing to do in Champawat. Yes, there is no entry fee (yet!) to see the beautiful remains of the Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. You can take a free walking tour here.

Having said that, you can donate to the Shri-Kshetra Mahabaleshwar Devasthan Trust which takes care of the temple. The donation is used in the upkeep of the temple. Devotees are also given proper receipt for the same.

Baleshwar Group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Author Abhinav Siingh at work in Baleshwar Group of temples, Champawat, Uttarakhand . Candid Pic by: Mrs. Lakshmi Sharath

Backpacking Budget Travel Tips for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

What makes Baleshwar Mahadev Temple an inexpensive and pocket friendly destination is the fact that is costs very less to reach Champawat and that there is no entrance fee to see this offbeat medieval temple. It is also easy to find low-cost accommodation and stay options in Champawat.

Solo Trip Tips for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

I know friends who have easily visited Baleshwar Mahadev Temple as a solo traveller. It is a safe solo travel destination for both males and females. Availability of low-cost hotels, regular public transport and easy connectivity from Delhi, Tanakpur and Pitthoragarh makes it a perfect place to visit in Uttarakhand for solo travellers like me.

Luxury travel Tips for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

You can also enjoy Champawat on a luxury budget. However, having said that, do not expect ultra-luxurious resorts in Champawat which you may see in Mussoorie etc. Also, you can hire luxurious cars from Delhi or other places such as Pithoragarh.

Where to stay near Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

A variety of stay options and various accommodation facilities are available at walking distance from the Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. You can choose to stay near the market of Champawat, which is just 2-3 minutes’ walk away from the temple. You can also choose to stay in Lohaghat or Abbott Mount and make a day trip to Champawat. We had stayed in a low-cost homestay in Tanakpur and made a day trip to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple, which is off the beaten track.

Some of the best places to stay in Champawat are Hotel Shiva residency, Hotel Ganpati, Hotel Seahawk, Hotel Akashdeep, Hotel Cedar Valley and Tiwari Hotel & Restaurant.

What to wear in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Since we visited Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in the fourth week of November, I had packed in jackets and shawls. However, the temperature in the day time was balmy and not very hot or cold. Be warned though that the temperature always dips in the night, whether summer or winter. It is wise to carry some woollens with you irrespective of the fact whether you are travelling here in winter, summer or spring.

It is advised to dress here conservatively because it is a highly revered Hindu shrine. Avoid wearing shorts, mini-skirts and revealing clothes here. Also, do not carry leather wallets, shoes or belts inside the temple premises. It is also wise to carry along first aid kit and required medications, if any!

carved ceilings of Shri Ratneshwar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Intricately carved ceilings on the walls of Shri Ratneshwar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand

Timings of Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is open from sunrise to sunset. I feel that around 8-9 a.m. is a good time to be here. This is when the light is also good on the temple (for photography) and you can also see some Vedic rituals taking place.

Every day, Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is open from

  • 5:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and from
  • 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Monday is considered to be the most auspicious day to worship Lord Shiva. I myself offer milk to Shivalinga every Monday at a temple near to me.

Best Time to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple?

Our trip had started on 23rd November and ended on 26th November. The best time to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat are the months of January, February, March, April, May, June, August, September, October November and December.

Spring

Spring is the best time to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. Spring season is also when the weather is crisp and the rhododendrons bloom.

Summer

People from plains often throng the streets of Champawat during summer. To beat the heat of North Indians plains, many discerning travellers visit Champawat for a quick respite from the heat and dust.

Monsoon

I avoid travelling in hills during the monsoon. Every year, news of catastrophic landslides fills the newspapers and social media warning people to avoid travelling in the hills of Uttarakhand during rainy season. Few listen and the unfortunate incidents caused by landslides continue. It is therefore better to avoid visiting Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in monsoon; despite Savan being a holy month for Hindus. It is risky to travel here in rainy season because the rains here are torrential.

Jalabhishek in Savan

However, many local Hindus visit the temple to perform ‘jalabhishek’ in the holy month of Savan. Every Monday, in the month of Savan, women queue up to perform ‘jalabhishek’ in the temple. It is said that doing ‘jalabhishek’ in savan here helps childless couples have babies. This is why people have immense faith in this temple.

Autumn

Autumn is also a great time to visit Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Winter

I visited Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in winter; 4th week of November to be precise. November is a very pleasant time to visit the temple in Champawat.  Be warned that December and January can be very cold in Champawat, even during the day.

Duration of Visit in Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

What should be the exploration time here? Since I am a blogger and travel writer, I had spent 2-3 hours at Baleshwar Mahadev Temple. However, even as a tourist you should spend at least 1 hour in this temple. The more time you spend here, the more you will discover.

How many days to spend in and around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple and Champawat?

What can I do in 1 day in and around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple? Within the few hours that we had, we were able to walk through the narrow alleys of Champawat, appreciating views of terraced gardens and local homes. Within few hours, we were also able to visit the tea gardens of Champawat and Kotwali Chabutra.

Machan of tea garden with views of Himalaya Mountains. Champawat, Uttarakhand
Machan of tea garden with views of Himalaya Mountains. Champawat, Uttarakhand

We also succeeded in paying a visit to the busy market of Champawat. What’s more? We even managed to buy some food souvenirs and harass local shopkeepers with our inane questions.

What can I do in 2 days in and around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in Champawat? We were also supposed to visit Abbott Mount, Lohaghat and Mayawati Ashram. Due to lack of time, we were unable to visit these hidden gems of Uttarakhand. If you have 1 or 2 days extra then you can easily include these local major attractions in your Champawat itinerary.

One Day Itinerary for Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat

Baleshwar Mandir is the best place to visit in Champawat. You can use this free itinerary and make your travel plans too. This is the itinerary I followed for a visit to Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in Champawat. This itinerary is suitable for those who want to make a day visit to Champawat from Tanakpur.

  • Leave Tanakpur homestay early morning
  • Arrive in Champawat
  • Visit Tea Garden of Champawat
  • Soak in the views of Himalayas from Champawat
  • Breakfast at a local restaurant of Champawat
  • Visit Kotwali Chabutra
  • Visit Champawat Market
  • Do souvenir shopping
  • Leave Champawat for return back to Tanakpur. (You can alternatively visit Lohaghat, Abbott Mount, Mayawati Ashram, Pithoragarh, Munsiyari, Dharchula, Goonji, Kalapani and Lipulekh Pass.

Motion Sickness

It was the first time in my life I felt motion sickness. I have been travelling independently since the year 2008 and have never felt nauseated or displayed other symptoms of motion sickness.

Since it was a first, so I think it deserved a mention here. I ended up vomiting while returning from Champawat to Tanakpur. I had only eaten two Alu Parathas since morning. While returning I felt nauseous and finally ended up vomiting on the road ride. I blamed it on frequent winding roads, food poisoning and traveling in hills after a long time. While climbing up the hills from Tanakpur (it’s a plain) to Champawat also, I felt nauseous on an empty stomach.

Soul Window Travel Tip

It is a good idea to carry anti motion sickness tablets. Consume it at least 2 hours before the trip commences. Chewing Gum also helps, but till a certain extent. Also, insist on sitting on the front seat if you are feeling nauseous. It definitely helps. If sitting on the back row, take the window seat if possible. It helps get out of car quickly and it is also less shaky than the middle seat.

Local Transport for sightseeing around Baleshwar Mahadev Temple

Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir is located at walking distance from the bus and car parking stand and Champawat market. You really do not need to hire any local transport to see the temple. Since the temple is located on a height, you need to take certain stairs to reach here.

In case you are old or have some ailments or are differently abled, you may face trouble climbing the road from the temple to Kotwali Chabutra. Not many know that there is an alternative route from where you can reach Kotwali Chabutra and the temple by a car. Hire a car or autorickshaw, if required. It is not much of a walk though. This is why, I suggest that if you can walk, ditch the car. You observe more when you walk.

How to reach Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat

Baleshwar Mahadev Temple is located in Champawat near the main market. This temple is located only half kilometre away from the district court on district headquarters road. Thanks to the baby bottom smooth motorable roads, Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat is well connected with all the major tourist places of Uttarakhand.

Here are all possible ways to reach Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in Champawat.

By car

We had reached Baleshwar Mahadev Temple in Champawat in Uttarakhand on a personal cab. We started our journey from Noida and new Delhi at 6 a.m. and arrived in Tanakpur on the same day via Hapur, Rudrapur and the highly revered Nanakmatta Gurudwara by 6 p.m.It was dark at 6 p.m. in Tanakpur because we travelled in winters.

The roads are very smooth on the Delhi Tanakpur route. The lush green sugarcane fields, dhabas and carts selling walnuts and pink guavas gave us constant company.

Route

The route for road trip which we took was:

Ghaziabad-Noida-New Delhi-Hapur-Rudrapur-Tanakpur-Champawat

Another popular and short route to Champawat starts from Haldwani via Bhowali (Haldwani to Bhowali is 36 kilometres via Bhowali-Bhimtal-Haldwani road). From Bhowali, tourists drive to Champawat, which is located only 144 kilometres or 5 hours away. You can also drive to Champawat from Pithoragarh and Munsiyari. Most of these places are located at the picturesque India-Nepal Border.

By air

Champawat does not have airports. The closest airport from Champawat and Tanakpur is Pantnagar Airport which is situated in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand state. You can take taxis or buses from here.

By railway

The closest railway station from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is located in Tanakpur. From Tanakpur railway station, you can hire a cab or hop on a bus or shared taxi which is heading towards Champwat.

By Bus

You can also take a bus to Champawat from Tanakpur, Almora or Pithoragarh etc. being a budget traveller myself, I find buses to be low-cost public transport option. The temple is located at walking distance from the bus stand. Distance between the Bus stand and the temple is only 100 metres.

Distances from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat Uttarakhand

Below are the distances from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat Uttarakhand to other nearby tourist attractions. The distances from Baleshwar Mahadev Temple of Champawat are given in ascending order. The closest places are mentioned first, so that you can plan your trip to this part of Uttarakhand easily.

Distance between Lohaghat and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 13 kilometres and it takes around 30 minutes via NH9.

Distance between Tanakpur and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 73 kilometres and it takes around 2 hours via NH9.

Distance between Pithoragarh and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 73 kilometres and it takes around 2 hours via NH9.

Distance between Khatima and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 96 kilometres and it takes around 2 hours and 25 minutes via NH9.

Distance between Kasar Devi and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 131 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours and 15 minutes via NH9 and NH 309B.

Distance between Almora and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 131 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours and 20 minutes via NH9 and NH309B.

Distance between Rudrapur and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 165 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours via NH9.

Distance between Dharchula and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 165 kilometres and it takes around 5 hours via NH9.

Distance between Pantnagar and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 167 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours via NH9.

Distance between Haldwani and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 172 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours and 20 minutes via NH9.

Distance between Kathgodam and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 174 kilometres and it takes around 4 hours and 20 minutes via NH9 and SH41.

Distance between Munsiyari and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 200 kilometres and it takes around 6 hours and 20 minutes via NH9.

Distance between Nainital and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 210 kilometres and it takes around 5 hours and 30 minutes via NH9.

Distance between Gunji and Baleshwar Mahadev Temple Champawat is 233 kilometres and it takes around 7 hours and 45 minutes via NH9 and Kailash Mansarovar Road

Respect

Do not make noise when inside the temple. Do not perform any actions which may hinder the prayers of others. Do not clutter and respect the environment. Collet your trash and bin them responsibly. Smoking and consumption of alcohol and non-vegetarian cuisine is prohibited in and around the temple premises.

Author Abhinav Siingh at Shri Ratneswar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand
Author Abhinav Siingh at Shri Ratneswar Temple, Champawat, Uttarakhand. Pic by: Mrs. Lakshmi Sharath

Conclusion: Is Baleshwar Mahadev Temple worth visiting

Why visit Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir? Let me share my overview. This temple is off the beaten track. At least for me, Baleshwar temple is the best place to see in Champawat. In a nutshell, I feel that people should make personal efforts to visit ancient places such as Baleshwar Temple.

It can also double up as a great vacation in the hills because you can enjoy gorgeous views of the Himalayan mountains from here as well. Historical places such as Kotwali Chabutra and the wide-open tea estates are cherry on the cake!

Here are my final thoughts. To summarize, temples like Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir are one of the few medieval temples which you can visit in this region of Kumaun in Uttarakhand. This is why, it is a must-see place in West Uttarakhand. What’s stopping you to pay your respects at this temple?

Share this blog with your friends and family and plan a trip now! You can even club amazing nearby destinations such as the gorgeous Tanakpur, Lohaghat, Mayawati Ashram, Mount Abbott, Pithoragarh, Munsiyari, Dharchula, Lipulekh Pass and even the once-in-a-lifetime Kailash Mansarovar Yatra in West Tibet.

The view from my Soul Window is exquisite!

Pin this blog to save the blog and plan a trip later!

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